Royal & Noble Jewels

Royal & Noble Jewels

View full screen - View 1 of Lot 1151. Two gold, enamel, diamond and hairwork bracelets, a brooch and a set of dress studs, 1830s.

Property of the Ducal House of Bavaria

Two gold, enamel, diamond and hairwork bracelets, a brooch and a set of dress studs, 1830s

Estimate

1,100 - 1,900 CHF

Lot Details

Description

Comprising: a braided hairwork bracelet of jarretière design, the buckle depicting the combined cipher of Queen Therese and King Ludwig I of Bavaria applied with blue enamel, suspending a pendant of similar design centering a rose diamond, length approximately 200mm, adjustable; a braided hairwork bracelet, the clasp designed as a textured and engraved gold buckle, length approximately 160mm; a brooch designed as a scrolled frame engraved with a neo-rococo pattern centering an oval miniature depicting a bouquet painted on paper, the reverse containing a lock of hair, fitted case; and a set of four engraved gold dress studs containing locks of hair under glass, Parisian assay marks for gold, fitted case.

Brooch and one bracelet:

Therese of Sachsen-Hildburghausen, Queen of Bavaria (1792-1854)


Set of dress studs:

King Ludwig I of Bavaria (1786-1868)

The brooch belonged to Therese of Sachsen-Hildburghausen, Queen of Bavaria (1792-1854), whereas the enamel, diamond and hair bracelet features the combined cipher of her and her husband King Ludwig I of Bavaria. The set of four dress studs belonged to King Ludwig I of Bavaria (1786-1868).


Sentimental Journey


The nineteenth century was the heyday of sentimental jewellery. The Romantic movement had awoken a sense of the importance of feeling, family life and national identity.


For Royals, aristocrats and the newly emerging bourgeoisie alike, it became fashionable to commemorate family occasions, important life events, births and deaths with a piece of sentimental jewellery. Very often jewels were inscribed with a meaningful date or a personal message.


Lockets were the most versatile sentimental jewels that could contain a lock of hair of a loved one, a dried flower, a small note or that great novelty: a photograph. Photographs first became more widely available in the 1840s thanks to the Daguerreotype process. Whereas miniatures painted on enamel or ivory had been a popular feature of jewellery for centuries, the photograph allowed for a much quicker and less costly way of having one’s dearest near oneself. These lockets could be worn as pendants on a chain or from a bracelet or brooch.


Locks of hair could not only be contained within a locket, but also carefully braided and incorporated into the design of a bracelet. Such hair jewels were not only very personal, but also required a very high level of skill to manufacture.


This collection from the Ducal House of Bavaria is particularly rich in lockets and other sentimental jewels containing many photographs, locks of hair and inscriptions pertaining to key figures of the Bavarian Royal house across the entire 19th century.