Wièse

Jules Wièse (1818–1890), born in Berlin, began his career as an apprentice to the court goldsmith Johann Georg Hossauer. Like many renowned metalsmiths and jewellers before him, Wièse relocated to Paris, where in 1839, he began working under François-Désiré Froment-Meurice. Wièse ultimately rose to the position of workshop manager, during which time he adopted the name Jules Wièse.

On February 11, 1844, Wièse registered his maker's mark with the Paris Assay Office under the name Jules Wiset, characterized by the initials "J" and "W" with stars positioned above and below within a vertical lozenge. However, this registration was cancelled on March 24, 1849. Following a hiatus of nearly a decade, the same mark was re-registered on March 24, 1858, under the name Jules Wièse for "bijoux artistique."

During Wièse’s tenure with Froment-Meurice, the jewelry produced reflected the artistic influences of the Middle Ages and Renaissance art and architecture. Following Froment-Meurice's death in 1855, Wièse exhibited independently at the Paris World Exhibition, where he was awarded a Class 1 medal. A contemporary report on the exhibition noted, "The results of his efforts have earned Mr. Wièse a place among the most prominent and meritorious fabricators of France."

By 1867, Wièse had been influenced by the Campana Collection, which featured a remarkable array of ancient Etruscan and Roman gold jewellery. This inspiration led him to create bracelets, brooches, necklaces and rings in the "Archaeological" revival style.

In 1890, Jules Wièse’s son, Louis Wièse (1852–1923), took control of the workshop, having been meticulously trained by his father. Louis registered his own maker's mark, featuring the name "WIESE" with a star above and below within a horizontal lozenge, which is stamped onto this bracelet presented by Sotheby's. Louis Wièse, was described by Vever as “an exceptionally modest and truly talented artist,” who sought to uphold and further the exemplary reputation for fine craftsmanship that his father had established. He continued to work within the same artistic tradition, producing exquisitely crafted goldwork, sometimes based on his father's designs.