SAPPHIRE, RUBY AND DIAMOND NECK BADGE OF THE ORDER OF THE GOLDEN FLEECE, CIRCA 1820

The riband carrier set with five cushion-shaped diamonds, supporting three detachable pieces, the first of laurel wreath design  set with a cushion-shaped diamond, framed by similarly cut diamonds, width 56.5mm,  the second representing the flintstone centering a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 8.90 carats, embellished with circular-cut rubies, and the third forming the Golden Fleece Badge itself, set with cushion-shaped diamonds, the reverse of textured gold, elements may be worn separately, two brooch fittings, a triple-link white and yellow gold chain, length approximately 149mm, fitted case with the coat of arms of the Duke of Angoulême.

Louis-Antoine de Bourbon, Duc d’Angoulême and Comte de Marnes (1775-1844), the eldest son of Charles X, who was Grand Admiral of France from 1814 to 1830 (a position which would have been recognised by the inclusion of crossed anchors in the Bourbon arms).

The base of the case bears several old inventory or reference labels, including the number '10' crowned, '7', and the handwritten notes 'Herzoglich Parmaischer Primogenitur Familien-Schmuck Nr. Post: 7 des Inventur des Marschallarntes  -  16/7/1910  [signed]  Elie' and 'Toison d'Or du Roi Charles X'. Despite this provenance note it is thought that the badge in fact belonged to Louis-Antoine de Bourbon, Duc d'Angoulême and Comte de Marnes (1775-1844), the eldest son of Charles X, who was Grand Admiral of France from 1814 to 1830 (a position recognised by the inclusion of crossed anchors in the Bourbon arms).  The Duke had been invested as a Knight of the Order of the Golden Fleece in 1814. Accompanied by SSEF report no. 93528, stating that the cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 8.90 carats, measuring 12.54 x 11.10 x 7.05mm, is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating. Rubies well matched in colour, red of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions, minor abrasions and nicks. Sapphire blue of strong saturation, very minor abrasions. In our experts' opinion the cushion-shaped diamond measuring approximately 13.59 x 8.58 x 6.35mm, calculated to weigh approximately 5.00 carats, is J colour, SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Remaining diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 14.00 - 16.00 carats, on average H-J colour, VS-SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Scratches and tarnish to the metal consistent with age and light use. In good condition. Gross weight approximately 130 grams. Together with two separate brooch fittings enabling the wear of individual or paired elements of the badge and a triple-link white and yellow gold chain for wearing, in original velvet-lined gilt red morocco fitted case, the lid bearing the coat of arms of the Duke of Angoulême, the crowned Bourbon arms within the Saint-Esprit collar and badge over crossed anchors.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 93528, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating.