DIAMOND TIARA, KÖCHERT, CIRCA 1901

Of foliate scroll design, pavé- and collet-set with circular-cut diamonds, length of headband approximately 163mm, Austro-Hungarian assay marks and maker’s marks for Köchert, central cluster and side motifs detachable, fitted case stamped Köchert.

Given by Emperor François Joseph of Austria (1830-1916) to Archduchess Marie Anne of Austria (1882-1940) on the occasion of her wedding to Prince Elie de Bourbon-Parme (1880-1959) in 1903."Un écrin en cuir beige avec petit diadème ou bandeau en diamants, par Köchert. Ce diadème m'a été donné par l'empereur François Joseph comme cadeau de mariage".

[A beige leather case with a small diamond tiara or bandeau by Köchert. This tiara was given by Emperor François Joseph as a wedding gift]. 

Excerpt from the inventory of Archduchess Marie Anne of Austria, Princess Elie de Bourbon Parme

Archduchess Marie Anne of Austria, Princess Elie de Bourbon Parme, wore this tiara as a choker on her wedding day, as seen on the photograph page 38.

Irmgard v. Hauser Köchert, Köchert, Imperial Jewellers in Vienna. Jewellery Designs, 1810-1940, Florence, 1990, pg. 165 for the illustration of the drawing of the tiara dated 1901 where it is mentioned that it was made for Emperor François Joseph of Austria (1830-1916).

Mounted in silver and 14 carat gold. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 20.00 - 22.00 carats, on average H-I colour, SI-I included clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Evidence of tarnish to the metal and signs of wear to the metal commensurate with age and use. Total gross weigh 58 grams. Three screws deficient. Fitted case stamped HOF & KAMMER JUWELIER, A.E KÖCHERT, NEUER MARKT 15, WIEN, the lid of the fitted case not closing with discoloration and damages to the leather, the inside with damages to the fabric.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Marie-Anne was gifted this delicate tiara by Emperor François Joseph (1830-1916). It was made by the Austrian court jeweller Köchert, from whom the Emperor purchased many jewels. Köchert, which was founded in 1841, exists to this day.