黃金鑲彩色寶石項圈

• 鏤空項圈
• 鑲彩色寶石，包括刻面黃水晶、紫水晶及托帕石
• 配蛋面粉紅色及綠色碧璽
• 中央紋飾鑲1顆刻面黃水晶片，上鑲1顆蛋面綠色碧璽，其上再鑲1顆蛋面粉紅色碧璽
• 總重量約129 dwts
• 長度13 1/2至13英寸
• 其中一段鏈節可拆除，長度1/2英寸
• 約1908年
*拍品資料以英文為主，中文翻譯僅供參考

Formerly From the Collection of Lucia James Madill, sister-in-law of Paulding Farnham (pictured above).

In very good condition with gentle wear to the mounting and a warm patina to the gold. The faceted light purple amethysts, light yellow to medium-deep orange citrines and colorless to pale blue topazes are eye-clean to lightly included. The medium-light yellowish green and medium purplish pink cabochon tourmalines are lightly to moderately included. The mounting is nicely flexible and well-finished. To shorten, squeeze the release bar and slide off the additional link.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

波爾丁·法納姆（Paulding Farnham）擔任蒂芙尼首席設計師期間，聲名享譽國際。除了因為作品設計新穎以外，更因為其作品在二十世紀來臨之際，揭開了美術與裝飾藝術間的對話。法納姆以珠寶作為藝術表達的媒介。1889年，他為巴黎博覽會製作琺瑯彩蘭花，栩栩如生，首次獲得好評。法納姆領導有方，無論於設計還是工藝領域，蒂芙尼皆奠定了領導地位，自此蒂芙尼晉身環球珠寶商行列中競爭，成果纍纍。然而，是次上拍的項圈，本來卻是非賣品。

本項圈為體現工藝美術風格的最佳典例，本來卻是用作送給法納姆嫂子路西婭·傑姆斯·馬迪爾（Lucia James Madill）的禮物。法納姆憑此設計，自然成為開創時代潮流的創意大師。他將異想天開的巧思與客觀存在的事物互相融合，擺脫了上一代新古典主義桎梏。法納姆的作品與古斯塔夫·克林姆的新藝術主義代表作《花草農園》頗有相通之處，兩者受自然風景啟發，但絕無陰寒死寂的氣息，而是繁花盛放、生趣盎然。

法納姆一如克林姆，不但陶醉於自然世界的感官之美，更鍾情研究背後的科學原理。法納姆對珠寶之美、珠寶原理，均具淵然深識，更將其識見傳達予世人。法納姆與寶石學家喬治·弗烈德里克·昆茨（George Frederick Kunz）合作搜羅世上奇石，後來更成為蒂芙尼的藝術珠寶美學的印證。法納姆借用大自然如畫般完美的幾何與色彩，交織出優雅絕美的瑰麗珍寶，正如本品一樣。本品寶石色彩繁多但和諧互容，顯示其已從「花環風格」（garland style）的單色調中另闢蹊徑，展現法納姆的慧見卓識，無論裝飾藝術還是美術界，莫不受這創作風潮的澤被。本項圈為法納姆晚期知名作品之一，他希望實驗不同寶石的光芒與材質的效果，正在本品得以體現，更預示接班人路易·康福特·蒂芙尼美學革命的來臨。