Art Deco天然翡翠配法瑯彩、寶石及鑽石別針, 卡地亞（Cartier）, 年份約1927

• 天然翡翠約32.05 x 25.51 x 3.57毫米
• 鑽石共重約3.05卡拉
• 藍寶石共重約6.90卡拉
• 鉑金鑲嵌
• 附卡地亞品牌刻名及編號2716472

Colour and Clarity: According to the Jadeite Jade Testing Certificate, the carved jadeite plaque is natural, Type A Jadeite Jade. Please refer to the certificate for details. In our opinion, the jadeite plaque is translucent, of strong apple green colour, with minor cloud inclusions and black spots under transmitted lighting. Faceted sapphires are of medium to medium intense blue colour, eye clean and lively; cabochon sapphire is of strong blue hue, eye clean. Emerald is of medium intense saturation, eye clean. Jadeite beads are translucent, of slightly deep green with touch of brownish clouds. Diamonds are about F to H colours, VS to SI clarity that a few stones have surface chips under loupe check, not seen to naked eyes. Signed and numbered to the reverse. Condition: Vintage brooch circa 1927, enamel is intact with signs of normal wear to the metal, overall in very good condition. IMPORTANT NOTICE: Please note that jadeite and rubies of Burmese origin and articles of jewellery containing jadeite or rubies of Burmese origin all less than 100 years old may not be imported into the US. The purchaser's inability to import any item into the U.S. or any other country as a result of these or other restrictions shall not justify cancellation or rescission of the sale or any delay in payment. Please check with the specialist department if you are uncertain as to whether a lot is subject to these import restrictions, or any other restrictions on importation or exportation.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

附卡地亞品牌證書及品牌盒子乙個


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異國風情的最佳演繹

很多人可能不會相信，遠在十七世紀法國路易十四執政的時期，歐洲社會便已對遠東的文化十分好奇。當時廷中經常舉辦充滿中國風情的化妝舞會，宮廷樂手會彈奏中國樂器，皇室貴族們會身穿絲綢所製的刺繡服飾赴會，被視之為時髦盛事。這股「中國熱」對當時的裝飾藝術、建築、時裝風尚也有一定的影響力。如果將其比諭為之後數百年來東西方交流的序曲，那麼，這曲目最激昂的篇章便在二十世紀20年代響起了。這就是廣為人知的「裝飾藝術風格」﹝Art Deco﹞時期。

20世紀初期，曾經遙不可及的埃及、印度、波斯及遠東各國變得更易於前往；他們豐饒的藝術題材、帶有異國情調的素材和絢麗的顏色組合為不少歐洲珠寶商帶來了新鮮的靈感。當中愛這些元素影響至深的便是當時已被譽為「珠寶之王」的卡地亞家族。當時的卡地亞兄弟博學廣識，熱衷於收藏藝術品，除了時常到訪法國的古董店外，也懷著探索古文明的好奇心遊歷世界。這種對異地文化和美學的敏銳觸角促使他們編制大量資料，並將其歸檔典藏。他們會將這些典籍與工作夥伴分享，讓設計師們由此汲取靈感，幻化成耳目一新的佳作。

許多卡地亞的Art Deco作品都採用了東方圖案，甚至加入文物的部分，融合幾何線條的運用，用色大膽鮮明。2013年紐約蘇富比拍賣的一系列卡地亞埃及復興珠寶便是絕佳的範例。其中一個別針以藍綠色的彩陶為主題，紫藍色的青金石為背景，以黑白對比的鑽石及縞瑪瑙營造外邊的孤線，呈現別具風格的創新作品。

這種對顏色的靈巧運用和不同素材的精妙配對在卡地亞的「水果錦囊」設計更見特出。「水果錦囊」標誌著卡地亞使用雕刻寶石打造珠寶的第一舉，這些作品一般會包含紅、藍、綠三種顏色，以各種造型的紅藍寶石及袓母綠雕刻小珠為主，相信是雅克·卡地亞從印度之旅帶回來的東方精品。儘管紅、藍、綠三色乍眼看去略顯突兀，可是經卡地亞的妙手重組後，每每迸發出絢麗的色彩火花。這種與眾不同的風格自此成為卡地亞的經典之一，並在1989年取得了專利。拍品1850的半月型別針便有「水果錦囊」的格調，而且還用了當時深得卡地亞歡心的縞瑪瑙突出利落線條。這種飾物在20年代十分流行，女仕們會將它們扣在腰帶、肩膀又鐘形帽上，既時尚又能起定位的功能。

除了埃及和印度，遠東的文化在這段時期也是西歐國家熱衷探索的課題，中國和日本的各種藝術形式為他們帶來了新的概念。卡地亞亦深受啓發，但他們會䀆量保留藝術品的原貌，將一整件翡翠雕件或龍鉤等加入創作之中，然後作出適度調整，讓它們更配合歐洲的審美標準。卡地亞善於融合古物、顏色及素材的高超技藝在拍品1851 上發揮得淋漓盡致。這枚不拘一格的別針中心鑲有綠色翡翠雕件，設計師特意以紅色琺瑯彩勾畫其線條，除了能讓人想起對十九世紀中國的硃砂漆，更為藍寶、袓母緣和翡翠珠添上紅色，完整了「水果錦囊」的調色板。 翡翠雕件兩面都有極為精緻的雕工，主題詩意盎然，相信亦為清朝之物。此外，別針兩端的波斯棕櫚葉式圖形常見於波斯地毯和傳統模具中，都是東方的裝飾元素。最外面的透明硬石框，以簡單的孤線總結整個設計，利落不冗贅。整個佈局拿捏準確到位，體現卡地亞一貫的膽識及雅韻。

這兩枚極為難得的Art Deco別針，不僅反映出卡地亞無限的創意天才，亦見證了近百年前東西方文化的美麗邂逅。這一次遇見，激發了前所未有的原創性，為後世帶來了一系列和諧優雅的不朽之作。