清乾隆 明黃紗織雲蝠行龍紋十二章吉服

exquisitely woven in multi-coloured threads with nine scaly five-clawed dragons, one on the inner flap, soaring amidst cloud scrolls and chasing flaming pearls, interspersed with bats, stylised shou characters and the 'Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority', all against a fret-diapered yellow ground, the borders at hem and sleeves worked with crashing waves and terrestrial diagrams, clouds and lishui bands, the collar band and cuffs similarly decorated with dragons writhing sinuously above cresting waves and chasing flaming pearls against a black ground

伯希和收藏
巴黎佳士得2007年12月7日，編號281

The overall condition is very good. The colours are bright and appears to have been preserved well and not faded. The robe has a few expected loose couched-gold threads to the collar and cuffs. There are also typical reinforced areas, especially to the seams and inner flap. The left sleeve has a water-stained patch. There is also typical minor wear and tear especially to the yellow gauze section of the sleeves (visible in the catalogue). Some unevenness of form, suggesting possible modification in antiquity, as typical of Qing robes.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

吉服紋飾華麗織九龍及十二章紋，乃帝王之服。吉服搭配吉服帶、吉冠、朝珠與吉服掛，著用於皇室壽誕或較非正式場合。Linda Wigglesworth 和 Gary Dickinson，於專著《Imperial Wardrobe》，柏克萊，2000年，頁159，提及吉服大異於朝袍，其裁製設計以滿清傳統服飾為原型，較不顯明代朝服之影響。

參考二件類同黃緞繡錦地吉服，其一原為 Bernard Vuilleumier 收藏，現存倫敦國立維多利亞與艾伯特博物館，載於 Verity Wilson，《Chinese Textiles》，倫敦，2005年，圖版86，另一件刊錄於 Bernard Vuilleumier，《Symbolism of Chinese Imperial Ritual Robes》，倫敦，1939年，圖版I，同錄還有一件黃地雙囍紋袍服，圖版XIII；明尼亞波利斯美術館亦藏有一例，展出於《Imperial Robes and Textiles of the Chinese Court》，明尼亞波利斯，1943年，編號IV；還有一件吉服，售於香港佳士得2004年4月26日，編號1014。亦可比較一件未裁剪龍紋吉服，售於紐約蘇富比2002年3月20日，編號321。

十二章紋可溯至漢代，而書經記載，早於舜帝時已訂朝服須飾十二章紋之規，清初服飾雖棄用十二章紋，乾隆帝在位時下令復用，首見錄於《皇朝禮器圖式》，規範十二章紋僅限用於帝王袍服，惟特殊恩賜下，皇室成員才得以著用。

伯希和（1878-1945）為著名法籍漢學家，二十世紀初期為研究傳統經典手稿，遊遍中國與中亞地區，法國吉美博物館一展覽廳即以伯氏為名。