拍品 3016
  • 3016

清十八世紀 片金刺繡「八吉祥」纏枝蓮紋馬褂

估價
4,000,000 - 6,000,000 HKD
招標截止

描述

the waist-length garment opening in front with an overlap closing to the right, the rich gold-foiled satin ground meticulously worked and expertly embroidered in high relief gold-wrapped thread on the front and back with the 'Eight Auspicious Symbols of Buddhism' (bajixiang) namely the Wheel of Law (fa lun) flanked by the Standard of Victory (san) and the Endless Knot (panchang), under the Twin fish (yu) set above the left sleeve and the Conch (luo) set above the right, the reverse centred with the Lotus (hehua), below the Vase (guan) and the Parasol (gai), all springing above foliate lotus bases borne on elaborate strapworks, some of the emblems picked out with silver wires, occasionally stained in green, and red silk threads, the interior with white silk lining from neck to hem

Condition

There is a scorched burn hole on the left of the jacket below the left sleeve (approx. 3 cm. diameter, showing on the illustration in the catalogue), there are some expected folds marks at the junction between the sleeves and the jacket, as well as horizontally in front, with associated wear. The colouring on some emblems produced using green stained wires and red threads have somewhat faded in places. The silk lining inside is somewhat faded to beige with a few tears. However the overall condition is quite good.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

拍品資料及來源

此馬褂以片金地纏金線繡飾八吉祥紋,金碧輝煌。一般滿清馬褂宜於外出活動時穿著,然本品製作精巧,滿飾佛教紋樣,似為佛教儀式而製。纏金線之藝,早於唐時已有,陝西扶風法門寺塔下地宮(封於874年),出土織品逾700件,當中包括袖珍袈裟,上飾纏金線花卉紋,圖見 Shelagh Vainker,《Chinese Silk. A Cultural History》,倫敦,2004年,圖版68。

衣物上綴八吉祥紋者甚稀,罕例可見清皇太極年間黃色暗花綢綿袍,乃清宮舊藏,現存北京,載於《故宮博物院藏文物珍品全集.清代宮廷服飾》,香港,2005年,圖版5。另見片金袈裟,同飾八吉祥,用以包裹鎏金銅佛,出處同上,圖版153。同書另載一漳絨團八寶紋夾馬褂,圖版137。

馬褂乃滿清官員騎士之便服,其中以黃色馬褂最為尊貴。黃馬褂連套穿衣服,可見 Gary Dickinson 及 Linda Wrigglesworth,《Imperial Wardrobe》,柏克萊,2000年,圖版98。