Icons of Jewelry Design – Bvlgari
Dive into the rich history of Bvlgari and explore three of its most iconic designs.
Brief History of Bvlgari
Bvlgari was founded by a Greek silversmith Sotirio Boulgaris, whose name was later Italianised to Bulgari. Born in Epirus in 1857 into a family with a rich heritage of silversmithing, Sotirio embarked on a journey that took him through Corfu and Naples before arriving in Rome in 1881. In 1884, he established his first shop on Via Sistina, followed by a second boutique at 28 Via Condotti the following year, offering an selection of artistic silverwork, antiques, and jewelry.
By 1905, Bvlgari had shifted its focus more decisively towards fine jewelry with the opening of a flagship boutique at 10 Via Condotti in Rome, near the iconic Spanish Steps. This historic store remains the heart and soul of Bvlgari to this day. Sotirio was soon joined in his endeavors by his two sons—Costantino (1889–1973), an academic who authored the definitive work on Italian silversmithing, and Giorgio (1890–1966), who played a pivotal role in sourcing precious stones and shaping the brand’s creative vision.
After Sotirio’s death in 1932, his sons took over the business and were later joined by Giorgio’s three sons: Gianni, who departed the company in 1987; Paolo, a master of gemstones; and Nicola, a passionate historian and expert in silver craftsmanship. The iconic Bulgari style fully emerged in the 1960s, during the golden era of La Dolce Vita, defined by bold, architectural designs and sumptuous, vividly colored gemstones—particularly cabochons.
As Bvlgari expanded globally, it captivated a prestigious clientele of writers, artists, and Hollywood stars, including the legendary Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor. By the 1980s, the brand’s distinctive aesthetic had become a defining force in jewelry design. As Andy Warhol famously remarked, “Bulgari jewelry was the eighties.”
In 2011, the legacy of Bvlgari reached new heights when it was acquired by the luxury conglomerate LVMH.
Three of Bvlgari's Most Iconic Designs:
1. Bvlgari Monete or Bvlgari Coin
Bvlgari's iconic Monete collection was first introduced in the 1960s, featuring ancient coins primarily dating from 300 BC to 300 AD. These exquisite pieces, adorned with antique and historical coins, pay homage to the brand’s deep-rooted Greek origins and rich Roman heritage.
During the 1960s, Rome was the epicenter of Hollywood glamour, and Nicola Bulgari envisioned Monete jewels as a way to give these ancient artifacts a second life. He pioneered a collection of striking statement necklaces with long, elegant chains that became synonymous with the era’s opulence. Today, the Bvlgari Monete collection has expanded to include rings, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets, each embodying a unique blend of history and modern luxury.
In October 2023, Sotheby’s auctioned a remarkable Bvlgari Monete necklace for 1,270,000 HKD (163,036 USD). This Monete necklace featured a bezel-set antique coin depicting a male in profile, with the reverse showing a classical figure. The bezel was inscribed ‘ROMA TITUS AUG. A.D. 79-81,’ referencing Emperor Titus Vespasianus Augustus. Encircled by intricately carved carnelian and brilliant-cut diamonds, the necklace highlights the enduring allure of Bvlgari’s designs.
2. Bvlgari Serpenti
The first Bulgari Serpenti piece was introduced in 1948—a striking bracelet-watch crafted in gold, featuring a square-shaped dial set within a serpent’s head and a coiling body that elegantly wrapped around the wrist. This flexible design was achieved using the Tubogas technique, characterized by seamless, continuous coils of gold.
By the 1950s, the Serpenti design evolved to take on a more lifelike serpent form, with a meticulously sculpted head adorned with precious gemstone eyes—rubies, sapphires, or emeralds—adding an exquisite touch of realism. The watch dial was discreetly concealed within the serpent’s mouth, making it a “secret watch,” a concept that captivated the luxury world.
The Bvlgari Serpenti gained widespread fame in the 1960s when Elizabeth Taylor was photographed wearing one on the set of Cleopatra (1963) in Rome. Her affinity for the piece cemented its status as a symbol of glamour and sophistication. Fashion icon Diana Vreeland, known for her passion for serpent-inspired jewelry, owned a striking Bvlgari Serpenti belt in white and pink enamel, which she often wore coiled around her neck as a bold statement accessory.
Today, the Serpenti remains one of Bvlgari’s most iconic motifs, continuously re-imagined across watches, jewelry, and handbags, embodying the brand's enduring legacy of elegance and innovation. In April 2023, Sotheby's sold a Bulgari 'Serpenti' Rubellite, Diamond and Ruby Necklace for 10,130,000 HKD (1,300,439 USD). Designed with pear-shaped ruby eyes, this Bulgari necklace features a head adorned with brilliant-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds, leading to a strand of rubellite beads spaced by square diamond rondelles and accented with pear-shaped diamonds, all set in 18-karat white gold.
3. Bvlgari Bold Color and Cabochons
A defining hallmark of Bvlgari jewelry is its exuberant and audacious use of color—an artful blend of vibrant gemstones, daringly unconventional combinations, and a distinctly Italian sensibility. Boldly hued stones set into Bvlgari necklaces epitomize the brand’s unmistakable style and fearless approach to design.
By the 1960s, Bvlgari jewelry erupted in a kaleidoscope of color, with necklaces showcasing tonal blends of pale blue Sri Lankan sapphires alongside striking juxtapositions of traditional gems mixed with citrines, amethysts, and tourmalines—most notably, Bvlgari pioneered the widespread use of vividly colored sapphires.
Equally crucial to the brand’s aesthetic evolution was the choice of gemstone cuts. In the late 1950s and throughout the 1960s, Bvlgari introduced the cabochon cut—a smooth, rounded shape that evoked the opulence of Renaissance jewels and marked a departure from conventional faceted stones.
Paolo Bulgari, inheriting his father Giorgio’s deep passion and expertise in gemstones, cultivated an exceptional eye for the unique beauty of cabochons. This legacy of artistry and innovation continues today under the guidance of Creative Director Lucia Silvestri, who affirms, "Most of all, Bulgari stones have to be alive."
Advantages to Buying Bvlgari on the Secondary Market
There are many advantages to buying Bvlgari jewelry at Sotheby's. As one of the largest and most established global luxury secondary markets, Sotheby's offers clients many unique advantages when growing a Bvlgari collection.
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Bvlgari jewelry from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Bvlgari jewelry in the most coveted designs. Our jewelry specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Bvlgari pieces from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Bvlgari jewels.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Bvlgari jewelry including auction, online and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Bvlgari pieces that aren't available at auction or online.
3. Value
As a leading global secondary market, Sotheby's often provides great value for Bvlgari jewelry. While Sotheby's regularly sells Bvlgari jewelry over $100,000, many of these Bvlgari pieces sell for below the original retail price. Some pieces may experience a 30 to 40% decrease from retail price to secondary market. The discount varies depending on the jewelry's design, quality, size of the diamond and gem stones, and overall market conditions. Some Bvlgari jewelry can also sell at a premium to the original retail, especially for one of a kind vintage designs, jewelry with provenance linked to celebrities and/or royalty, and pieces featuring exceptionally rare diamonds and colored gem stones. Sotheby's is a great place to start collecting Bvlgari jewelry. Sotheby's also provides seasoned collectors value for vintage Bvlgari jewelry at prices that can be materially lower than retail replacement values.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury secondary market is discovering unique pieces from decades earlier and custom designed one of a kind Bvlgari jewelry. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Bvlgari jewelry. You are likely to discover something new to you.
Buy and Sell Bvlgari At Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has rare and collectible Bvlgari jewelry available at auction including Serpenti, Monete, and Cabachon designs. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Bvlgari jewelry available for immediate purchase. If you would like to view Bvlgari jewelry, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Bvlgari jewelry from its global supplier network. Prices for Bvlgari jewelry can start around $4,000 for gold band rings and rise significantly for more coveted designs. Iconic Bvlgari jewelry designs such as Serpenti bracelets can exceed $50,000.
- Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Jewelry Specialist about selling Bvlgari jewelry.
Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
