Anatomy of an Artwork: A Robe Fit for an Empress

Anatomy of an Artwork: A Robe Fit for an Empress

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  An imperial embroidered yellow silk twelve-symbol dragon robe, Jifu, Qing Dynasty, Guangxu period, 140x191 cm.
  Estimate: €40,000-60,000.

  The lack of vents at the front and back of this dragon robe identify it as a robe worn by a lady. More importantly, the Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority that are embroidered on the shoulders, the upper parts and skirts of sides of this fine yellow silk robe state that this robe was to be worn by an empress.

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  Front

  The Twelve Symbols only appeared on the emperor’s clothing after 1759 during the reign of Qianlong, were meant to demonstrate the emperor’s legitimacy to the throne, visually associating him or her with the celestial and terrestrial powers.

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  Back

  Only the top members of the royal family — emperor, empress, empress dowager, and crown prince — could wear twelve-symbol robes.

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  Symbols

  The four principal symbols are (from left to right) the sun, the moon, the constellation and the rock. These are prominently positioned on the shoulders, chest and back of the robe.
  
  Eight additional symbols aligned the wearer with astronomy and the seasons and firmly positioned him or her at the centre of the world. These symbols comprise the ax head and the fu character on the robe's front, and a pheasant and paired dragons in corresponding positions on the back. Along the skirt on the front and back of the robe appear the pair of libation cups, aquatic grass, grains of millet and flames.

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  Sun

  "A red disk, embroidered on the left shoulder represents the sun which encloses a distinctive raven, closely resembling a cockerel. This typical sunbird appeared in the legend of Hou Yi, the divine archer who shot down nine of ten suns in the form of a three-legged raven. The sunbird is less important than the sun itself, and remains only a commemorative element of the sun-disk. Inasmuch as sun is the main source of light and warmth, and being represented on the court robe, it symbolises the emperor, his supremacy, enlightenment and power."

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  Moon

  "The Moon-Disk, another celestial motif, symbolises the light and wisdom of the emperor, shining upon the world. Like raven in the sun, the moon encloses a legendary hare, pounding the elixir of immortality with pestle and mortar near a peach tree, a symbol of longevity."

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  Constellation

  "Constellations and stars are the symbols of the cosmic universe, considered deities which influence affairs on earth. The destiny of the State is connected with the stars, with its fortunes influenced by propitious or unfavourable stars. As the stars revolve and wander, men rise and fall. On the imperial robe, constellations are represented by three circles linked by lines above the facing Dragon on the chest. These are, probably, the Three Star Gods' also known as San Hsing. They are Fu-Hsing, Lu-Hsing, and Shou-Hsing, associated with happiness, employment or salaries, and longevity, respectively."

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  Rock

  "Rock symbolises the stability and constancy of the emperor. It is also the symbol of earth and provides a link to the heavens. Mountains have an association with gods and goddesses, are considered the abode of immortals, and were worshipped as deities when pilgrims climbed to the summits to perform sacrifices." Muhammad Sher Ali Khan, “Symbolism in the Official Court Robes of the Ch'ing 1 Dynasty (1644 - 1911).

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