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Islamic Art

A Splendid Selection of Jewels from India

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October's Arts of the Islamic World sale features two important private European collections of jewellery testifying to the wealth and sophistication of the courts of the Subcontinent. Click the image above to view the jewellery highlights from the sale.

Past Auction
Arts of the Islamic World
2019年10月23日 | 2:00 下午 BST | London

A Splendid Selection of Jewels from India

  • A Gem-Set Gold and Enamelled Sarpech, India, Benares, circa 1850
    Estimate £60,000-80,000
    Whereas sarpechs normally have a single jigha, this triple sarpech is a particularly elaborate example. According to Katherine Prior and John Adamson, only the Mughal emperor, his intimate relations and select members of his entourage were permitted to wear a royal turban ornament.
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  • A Mughal emerald crystal set in enamelled mount with seed-pearl string necklace, North India, 18th century
    Estimate £10,000-15,000
    In Mughal India emeralds were associated with the fertility of nature and were believed to aid good vision. The Mughals also believed emeralds like other precious gems had strong astrological associations; the time at which a stone would be engraved and when it should then be worn was governed by the relative position of the planets. The present example is rare in that it was left in its crystalline form and mounted as such, showing off its size.
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  • A large Mughal gem-set and enamelled belt buckle set as a necklace, North India, 18th century
    Estimate £8,000-12,000
    This impressive pendant was originally a belt buckle and was only later mounted as a necklace. It is decorated in the typical kundan technique and the reverse is finely inlaid with enamelled birds and flowers.
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  • A diamond, ruby and emerald-set gold Manga Malai necklace, India, Tamil Nadu, 19th century
    Estimate £40,000-60,000
    The Manga Malai, which directly translates to ‘necklace of mangoes’, is unique to ancient Tamil people, dating back to the Chola period (300 BC-1279 AD) or even earlier. The principal elements of design of the Manga Malai represent nature, with various forms of flowers, leaves, fruits and buds. According to Hindu mythology, the mango fruit is a symbol of love and fertility as well as nature, representing a wish-fulfilling tree.
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  • A gold and enamelled box depicting Krishna and Radha, India, probably Jaipur, late 19th century
    Estimate £7,000-10,000
    Small boxes are usually decorated with floral or animal decorations, while representations of Krishna and Radha are rarer.
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  • A pair of gem-set and enamelled bracelets (kada), Benares, North India, 19th century
    Estimate £12,000-18,000
    The pink and white enamel is typical of jewellery produced in Benares (Varanasi) in north India. The zoomorphic terminals are in the form of makara heads, a hybrid mythological beast associated with protection.
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  • A rare gem-set and green-enamelled bazuband, North India, circa 1900
    Estimate £18,000-25,000
    The use of peridot in Indian jewellery is unusual, but it is reputed to have been one of the Nizam's favourite stones. The present example was most probably sourced in Burma and sent to Hyderabad to be set along with other special commissions for the Nizam and his family. A further feature which is particularly rare is the overall green enamelling on the reverse, unlike the more common polychrome enamelling.
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  • An emerald and diamond-set polychrome enamelled necklace (khanti), North India, late 19th century
    Estimate £40,000-60,000
    During the Mughal period emeralds were mined in Columbia and reached India via Spanish merchants as trade goods. The first emerald mine was at Chivor, discovered in 1555 and another later at Muzo in 1560. A strong trade developed with the Mughals, who purchased the largest and finest quality emeralds.
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  • A gem-set and enamelled box, North India, circa 1900
    Estimate £10,000-15,000
    This floral shaped box testifies to the opulence and preference for elaborate gem-settings of the Indian aristocracy, seen even on a small scale.
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  • A diamond-set and enamelled amulet pendant (taweez) with seed pearl string, North India, circa 1900
    Estimate £14,000-18,000
    Known as a 'taveez choti' or braid amulet, the present example was designed to emulate the talismanic boxes which contained scriptures and were worn for protection. The added four seed-pearl strands would have been fastened to the braid of the wearer and worn as a symbol of status.
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