T
his superb collection of gold jewellery and ornaments of Southeast Asia was formed over the last three decades by a highly distinguished Asian private collector. The collection represents a true labour of love and dedication—an impressive achievement that would be impossible to replicate today. In ancient Asian civilisations, gold jewellery represented beauty, nobility and prestige. This is aptly expressed by the spectacular gold chains, earrings, ear ornaments and bracelets in this fantastic collection. They wonderfully capture the rich history and splendour of Southeast Asian jewellery, which are greatly admired and valued by international collectors for their exquisite craftsmanship and sumptuous design.
Featured Highlights
Ancient Javanese Earrings
Earrings in Classic Java were made for personal adornment, to be worn in daily life. While functionally the same, these ornaments exist in a variety of shapes and styles. Gold strips or bars were formed into loops and double scrolls, the latter a symbol of fertility. Others are composed of small granules attached to a central band of fused wires. Pronged earrings in the shape of a triangle were also characteristic of the early classic form. Ornaments of more elaborate designs may be set with semi-precious stone, or found with bezels meant to hold precious gems. Additionally, mythology was often incorporated into jewellery design, such as this Singa earring that depicts a beast with protective powers.
- Loops
- Double Scrolls
- Fused Wires
- Triangle
- Hardstones and Gems
- Singa Earring
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A looped solid gold earring Java, Indonesia, 7th - 12th century
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Two solid gold earrings Java, Indonesia, 7th - 12th century
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A pair of granulated solid gold earrings Java, Indonesia, 7th - 12th century
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A pronged solid gold earring Java, Indonesia, 7th - 12th century
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A solid gold and semi-precious stone ornament Java, Indonesia, 7th - 12th century
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An ornate solid gold earring Java, Indonesia, 7th - 12th century
The Sri Symbol
Chains of Power
Made to be worn by both men and women, gold necklaces in Khmer mainly consisted of intricate cruciform loops or breaded links fashioned into elaborate chains. Owing to Hindu influences from its neighbor India, common motifs included mythological creatures such as Makara or Naga. While the Khmers regarded necklaces as personal ornaments, they were reserved for socioreligious purposes in ancient Sumba. The kanatar was bestowed upon nobility as a royal badge of office, whereas the marangga, often attached to the ends of gold chains, was a signifier of family lineage. Considered dangerous if handled incorrectly, some personal slaves may have worn them on behalf of their masters.
Lingams
A lingam is an abstract representation of the Hindu god Shiva, often revered as a symbol of fertility and generative power. In contrast to the large size of on-location figures, the objects in this collection are relatively miniature, likely meant to be carried on the body. They also present several variations to the lingam’s original form. This Khmer representation, also known as mukhalinga, features the face of Shiva on its side. Another depicts a lingam on its female counterpart – the yoni. Together, the pair symbolises feminine and masculine, along with creation and regeneration. In India, the lingam may be also paired the Tripundra, consisting three horizontal lines and a dot that reminds its wearer of spiritual aims.