Audemars Piguet

When it comes to the celebrated Le Brassus based Manufacture, two thoughts immediately spring to mind: Royal Oak and perpetual calendar.

The Royal Oak has changed with image of Audemars Piguet as well as the watch panorama forever by creating a new category that has become the most desirable one of all: the luxury sport watches.

The Perpetual calendar is part of the very DNA of Audemars Piguet even before its creation, being the complication was chosen by Jules Louis Audemars himself for his school watch (also equipped with quarter repeating and dead beat second mechanisms) that he completed before 1875 and kept improving for the following 20 years.

There is no surprise that AP decided to equip their spearhead model with this complication. The Royal Oak was first introduced with a perpetual calendar under the reference 5554 (later renamed 25554) in 1983 and made available the following year. This first iteration of this “super model” was equipped with the caliber 2120/2800, which did not have the leap year indicator. Interestingly, while this indication first appeared on a wristwatch on an Audemars Piguet ref. 5516 in 1955, the perpetual calendar Royal Oak omitting the leap year are the most sought-after specimens. This might be thanks to the unique resonance the terms “first series” has in every collector’s heart. Furthermore, without this indication, the dial is perfectly balanced and resonates even better with the masculine design of the case and the bracelet.

This present timepiece, the original reference 25554 powered by its 2120/2800, was made in 1986 and is part of the early production. It has remained within the same private hands for over 30 years and is appearing for the first time on the international market. It retains well-preserved proportions, with clear original engraving and markings on the caseback, including the sought-after two owl hallmarks that confirm that the piece was originally intended for the French market. The 25554 is an historically important and meaningful model for a discerning collector. It is also an incredibly attractive and comfortable piece to adorn the wrist. This example is crafted in full yellow gold and bears its dial with matching colour, a stunning livery further enhancing its desirability.