Patek Philippe

Christie's, Geneva, November 2010, Lot 355

The present watch is prominently described and illustrated in PatekPhilippe Complicated Wristwatches by Paolo de Vecchi & Giogio Gregato, pp.116 & 117

In the mid-20th century, a time of remarkable transformation, Patek Philippe unveiled what would become one of the most legendary wristwatches in history: the reference 2499. Produced between 1950 and 1985, this model, available in yellow, rose gold, or platinum, was the bold successor to the 1518 and quickly became a symbol of elegance and prestige in the world of haute horlogerie. Only 349 examples were made over four decades, making it a highly sought-after collector’s piece.

At 37.5mm in diameter, the 2499 marked a distinct departure from the more understated 1518, not only in size but also in its daring design. The watch's stepped lugs added a dynamic flair, giving it a bolder, more dramatic presence on the wrist. The concave bezel, more pronounced than its predecessor, enhanced the watch's expressive aesthetic. Despite these changes, it retained the perpetual calendar and chronograph functions, powered by the renowned Valjoux Caliber 13-based movement, modified by Victorin Piguet, maintaining the same technical excellence that had defined Patek Philippe's earlier complications.

This particular reference 2499, a third-series model, is unique. It is the only known third-series 2499J (yellow gold) fitted with a black dial featuring applied hand-cut Breguet numerals. Such an extraordinary configuration is exceedingly rare—only six 2499s are known to have been fitted with black dials, making this piece especially remarkable. However, what sets this watch apart even further is the story behind its dial.

In the mid-1980s, one of the world’s most renowned collectors presented a bold and audacious request to Patek Philippe’s management: a dial design that would not only reflect his personal vision but elevate his Reference 2499 to an entirely new realm of sophistication. His desire? A striking black lacquer dial, set with lustrous gold Breguet numerals, and completed with scales and inscriptions in a refined beige-gold tone. In a rare exception to their post-war practices, Patek Philippe agreed to create this magnificent piece.

To execute this commission, the prestigious Stern Frères was tasked with crafting the dial to perfection. Crafted on a solid gold base plate, the dial was first oxidized and then painted black using advanced lacquering techniques from the late 1970s and 1980s. The signature, non-applied numerals, and minute tracks were transferred onto the dial using a gilt painting mixture made from 24k gold powder. Finally, the entire surface was sealed with Zapon lacquer to protect it, giving it a luxurious sheen that has withstood the test of time. This method ensured that the dial retained the classic elegance and precision for which Patek Philippe is renowned.

This third-series 2499, housed in a robust yellow gold case, is in superb condition, a testament to the care it has received over the years. The rarity of this particular configuration cannot be overstated. With only 100 yellow gold third-series examples made, this is the sole known piece to feature such a dial, positioning it as one of the most extraordinary 2499s ever discovered.