Universal Genève

Phillips, Geneva, November 2015, Lot 236

Antiquorum, Geneva, November 2007, Lot 208

Antiquorum, Geneva, October 2006, Lot 172

Founded in 1894 in Le Locle, Switzerland, Universal Genève has long been renowned for producing timepieces of extraordinary quality and precision. Originally known as "Universal Watch," the brand quickly rose to prominence in the world of horology, pioneering key innovations such as the chronograph wristwatch. Among its most celebrated creations are the Compax series, including the iconic “Nina Rindt” and “Evil Nina,” which have become highly sought-after treasures among discerning collectors. Today, these vintage models are revered not only for their oversized cases and distinctive dial designs but also for their rich historical significance.

In the late 1930s and early 1950s, Universal Genève entered a prestigious partnership with Hermès of Paris, resulting in a series of exceptional wristwatches that epitomized the perfect fusion of technical mastery and sartorial elegance. Manufactured by Universal Genève and sold exclusively by Hermès, these timepieces have become emblematic of haute horlogerie’s most refined expressions.

The present example, dating between 1936 and 1938, stands as an outstanding specimen of this renowned collaboration. Encased in sumptuous yellow gold, this chronograph boasts three generously sized registers and a beautifully preserved, lustrous black dial. Gold italicized Arabic numerals complement the dial, framed by a tachymeter scale along the outer chapter ring. Enhancing its elegance are the graceful gold feuille hands. The dial bears the Universal Genève signature at 12 o’clock, while the revered Hermès name graces the 6 o’clock position, just above the 12-hour register—symbolizing the dual heritage of this extraordinary piece.

This exceptional timepiece remains in remarkable condition, with its original hallmarks still visible on the case, and the lugs retaining their crisp definition. For the connoisseur of vintage horology, this watch offers a rare opportunity to acquire a piece that encapsulates both historical importance and artistic craftsmanship—a truly magnificent addition to any distinguished collection.