Patek Philippe

Habsburg Feldman, Geneva, April 1989, The Art of Patek Philippe, Lot 106

The Patek Philippe Reference 1518 stands as a landmark in the history of watchmaking, celebrated not only as the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph but also as a masterclass in both technical ingenuity and timeless design. Launched in 1941, during the tumult of World War II, the 1518 showcased Patek Philippe's ability to push the boundaries of horology, even in an era of global uncertainty. The introduction of this watch redefined what was possible in wristwatch design, setting the blueprint for perpetual calendar chronographs that followed.

At the heart of the 1518 is the caliber 13-130 Q, based on a Valjoux ebauche, which was meticulously upgraded and finished to the highest standards in Patek Philippe's workshops. The movement was then modified by Victorin Piguet under the dial to integrate the perpetual calendar function. This groundbreaking mechanism displayed the day and month in twin apertures at 12 o’clock, while the subdial at 6 o’clock incorporated both the date and moon phase indicator. A tachymeter scale circled the dial, adding both functional and aesthetic sophistication.

The 1518’s design is nothing short of iconic, with its slim lugs, refined bezel, and rectangular chronograph pushers. Its symmetrical layout is elegant and highly legible, striking a perfect balance between form and function. Produced between 1941 and 1954, only 281 examples were made, of which a mere 58 were crafted in pink gold—making this variant particularly rare and highly sought after. Notable clients who acquired the 1518 included some of the most influential figures of the era, such as King Farouk of Egypt, famed collector Henry Graves Jr., the King of Jordan, and boxing legend Sugar Ray Robinson, further cementing the watch's legendary status.

The present watch is a second-series 1518, Mark II, with a pink gold case—a rarity among an already exclusive production. It was sold in the famous Habsburg Feldmann sale, “The Art of Patek Philippe,” a landmark auction in the world of vintage watch collecting. The watch has also been fully restored by Patek Philippe, ensuring it remains in excellent condition while preserving the integrity of its historical significance.

Owning a Patek Philippe 1518 is not just about possessing a timepiece; it’s about owning a piece of horological history. This example, with its illustrious provenance and superb restoration, offers collectors a rare opportunity to acquire one of the most important watches ever created.