Patek Philippe

Sotheby's, New York, May 2018, Lot 106

Calatrava, a word that is now synonymous with Patek Philippe, is the name of a castle in the Castille region of Spain, and the Calatrava cross is the emblem of the order of knights who banded together in 1157 to defend it. In 1887, Patek Philippe chose the symbol to register as a trademark, inextricably linking the two for eternity. Though the Calatrava name was not given to a model family until the 1980s, it was retrospectively applied to certain vintage Patek Philippe watches that fit the same criteria: 3 hand watches with round cases.

The reference 1517 represents an early example of the Calatrava-style. Produced only a decade after the archetype for such watches, the famous reference 96, it sports an elegant and understated 32 mm case, which although may seem small at first glance is sure to excite collectors. The present watch is cased in pink gold, and connoisseurs will recognise the significance of pairing this case metal with a tonally matching pink sector dial, as the “pink on pink” configuration has made for some of the most desirable Patek Philippe watches.

Produced for only 7 years, a total of 343 pieces were made for the reference 1517. Not only can collectors be sure that they are bidding on one of the most attractive and desirable examples of the series with the present “pink on pink” sector dial watch, but also perhaps one of the most afforable Patek Philippe wristwatches of this attractive and historic configuration.