Patek Philippe

Christie's, Geneva, May 2012, Lot 378

Prominently illustrated and described in Die schönsten Armbanduhren vergangener Jahrzehnte bei Giampiero Negretti/Franco Nencini, pp. 192 & 193.

The Patek Philippe reference 130, first launched in 1934, is a cornerstone in the brand’s history, marking the debut of its serially produced chronograph. Initially named “13 501,” the reference was renamed in 1936 to “130,” and it would go on to become one of Patek Philippe’s most iconic chronograph models. Known for its clean, balanced aesthetics, the reference 130 encapsulates the elegance of mid-20th-century watchmaking, combining technical innovation with artisanal craftsmanship. Of the approximately 1,500 pieces believed to have been produced, only around 200 feature dials with Breguet numerals, making these particular examples highly coveted by collectors.

One particularly noteworthy piece within this reference is this unique single-pusher chronograph with Breguet numerals and a champagne dial—a configuration seen in no other known example. The light champagne hue of the dial is believed to have resulted from a restoration in the 1980s, adding an unexpected layer of character to the watch. Despite this alteration, the dial retains its original design elements, including the distinctive engraved-enamel technique used for the long Patek Philippe signature, the dual registers, the tachymeter scale, and the division of minutes into fifths of a second. It is important to mention that the latest restoration, in the 1980's, was conducted by a highly skilled restorer, as the enamel remains in excellent condition and that the retouches were made very skillfully.

What sets the single pusher chronographs further apart is the use of a Victorin Piguet movement. Considered more prestigious than other chronograph movements of the time, Victorin Piguet’s calibers were known for their fine craftsmanship and technical complexity. The asymmetrical layout of the subsidiary dials—a quirk stemming from the movement’s architecture—adds to the watch's unique charm. Unlike many other chronographs of the era, the subdials on this model are not equidistant, a subtle detail that highlights the artistry behind the movement's construction.

Further emphasizing the watch's artisanal pedigree, the Breguet numerals on the dial are meticulously cut by hand, a rare and labor-intensive process that imbues each numeral with a unique, hand-finished quality. Combined with the fifth-of-a-second display on the dial, this watch exemplifies the intricate balance of beauty and precision for which Patek Philippe is renowned.

As a single-pusher chronograph, this reference 130 belongs to a particularly rare subset of Patek Philippe’s production. It is believed that only around four dozen single-pusher reference 130 chronographs were ever produced, and fewer than 18 have been identified in the market today. The single pusher mechanism, which integrates both the start, stop, and reset functions into a single button, is a hallmark of early chronograph design, adding to the historical significance of this particular watch.

In sum, this unique reference 130 single-pusher chronograph stands as a testament to Patek Philippe’s mastery of both technical innovation and aesthetic refinement. Its rarity, coupled with the prestige of its Victorin Piguet movement and the meticulous craftsmanship of its Breguet numerals and engraved-enamel dial, make it an extraordinary piece in the annals of Patek Philippe’s storied history.