Sapphire and diamond bracelet, circa 1893

Infanta Maria Theresa of Portugal, Archduchess of Austria (1855-1944)

Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899)

Princess Nadejda of Bulgaria, Duchess of Württemberg (1899-1958)

Infanta Maria Theresa of Portugal, Archduchess of Austria (1855-1944), the third wife of Archduke Carl Ludwig (1833-1896), presented this bracelet to her niece Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma as a wedding gift when she married the future Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria in 1893.

What a Viennese woman wore

Reading Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany’s inventory and looking at pictures of her and her contemporaries such as Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, a clear image emerges of the predominant jewellery types worn by well-dressed central European aristocrats and society ladies of the Belle Epoque. For the evening elaborate tiaras and numerous rows of pearl strands and diamond rivières were worn, these pieces formed the absolute highlights of these ladies’ collections. A multitude of less significant bracelets and rings were worn with evening wear as well. Bracelets were usually composed of yellow gold links with a central motif. It is noteworthy how bracelets were unusually long by modern standards. On period photographs one can see how they were worn relatively high up on the arm, rather than at the wrist. These bracelets were usually always worn in large stacks and sometimes over gloves. A selection of rings completed the outfit. These rings and bracelets very often contained a variety of sentimental inscriptions. A large variety of brooches/pendants ranging from large corsage ornaments to small safety pins with a decorative central element were a staple of women’s wardrobes. Whereas earrings were seldom worn during this period. For an illustration of a woman in contemporary Viennese fashion, one can refer to Klimt’s 1894 Portrait of a Woman which shows the subject wearing a dress with gigot sleeves, several chain bracelets, a gold ring and a pendant from a chain.