Van Cleef & Arpels

Taking the ordinary and transforming it into the extraordinary; this spirit of ingenuity has resulted in some of the most masterful jewels in history. Perhaps one of the most iconic and truly original jewels created is the ‘Zip’ necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels. Renée Puissant, the Maison’s artistic director from 1926 to 1942 and daughter of Alfred Van Cleef, was commissioned by the Duchess of Windsor in 1938 to create a sophisticated jewel inspired by the humble zip fastener, invented in America in the late 19^th century. After tireless experimentation and meticulous attention to detail, the first zip necklace wasn’t introduced until almost twelve years later, by which time the Duchess’ interest had diminished and the jewel never entered her collection. The necklace features a functional zipper motif that can be opened and closed, allowing it to be worn in multiple ways, as a necklace or as a bracelet. The ‘Zip” here (lot 69), created circa 2018, is a particularly attractive example. Its warm gold finish and gorgeous flexibility are reminiscent of its mid-20^th century predecessors while its diamond-set “festoons” lend an aspect of luxuriant femininity. With its rich history and exceptional craftsmanship, the Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Zip’ necklace remains to this day a symbol of style, creativity and innovation.