René Boivin

Formerly in the Collection of Empress Nam Phu'o'ng of Vietnam (1914-1963).

Empress Nam Phuong

Empress Nam Phuong of Vietnam (1913-1963) was born Jeanne Marie-Thérèse Nguyễn Hữu Thị Lan, the daughter of wealthy landowners in the French colonial territory Cochinchina, today Southern Vietnam. Nicknamed Mariette by her family, she was raised a Catholic and completed her education at a convent school in Paris.

In 1933, she was introduced to the young Emperor Bao Dai (1913-1997) in the resort town Da Lat. Bao Dai was the last monarch of the Nguyen dynasty which ruled over the Empire of Amman, corresponding roughly to modern-day central Vietnam. Annam was a protectorate within French Indochina between 1883 and 1945.

The couple was married in 1934 and the bride adopted the dynastic name Nam Phu’o’ng meaning ‘Fragrance of the South’. The Buddhist Imperial Court, in particular the Emperor’s mother, disapproved of this alliance with a Catholic. Both bride and groom were educated in France and shared aspirations to modernise the country. This French education was reflected in their lifestyle: In 1937, Bao Dai acquired the luxurious residence Château Thorenc near Cannes. The Empress sought to combine elements of traditional costume with French couture and high jewellery. When received at the Vatican in 1954, Nam Phu’o’ng wore traditional Vietnamese dress instead of the customary black lace mantilla. Her jewellery collection included designs by Boucheron and especially many pieces by René Boivin of whom she was particularly fond.

Contrary to her husband who was completely dependent on the French government to approve his expenditure, the Empress’ considerable personal fortune allowed her to freely further humanitarian causes and female education gaining her the respect and admiration of her people.

Bao Dai abdicated in August 1945 when Vietnam declared independence from France under the rule of the Viet Nimh and its leader Ho Chi Minh. France tried to re-establish control over Vietnam and reinstated Bao Dai as titular head of state between 1949 and 1955 when the lost the throne a second time in a referendum. During the 1940 and and 1950s, Bao Dai's family mainly resided in France and only visited Vietnam occasionally.

Empress Nam Phu’o’ng separated from her husband in late 1950s. She spent her final years at the Château de Chabrignac in the department of Corrèze, Aquitaine. Her jewels remained with her descendants for several decades. On 23 June 2004, twenty-seven pieces from her collection appeared at Hôtel Drouot in Paris offered by the Étude Beaussant-Lefèvre, including this pair of diamond pendent ear clips by René Boivin.