Important Watches: Part I

Important Watches: Part I

View full screen - View 1 of Lot 65. Tank 'Oblique' | A yellow gold wristwatch | Circa 1970.

Cartier, London

Tank 'Oblique' | A yellow gold wristwatch | Circa 1970

Live auction begins on:

November 10, 11:00 AM GMT

Estimate

30,000 - 60,000 CHF

Lot Details

Description

Dial: cream, arabic numerals

Calibre: cal. P838 manual winding, 18 jewels

Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws, interior caseback featuring matching case number, “JC” punch and English hallmarks for 1970

Case number: 8'992

Closure: Cartier folding clasp featuring London marks, “JC” stamp and matching case number 8'992

Size: 24 mm x 38 mm (width x length)

Signed: case, dial and movement

Box: no

Papers: no

Accessories: Cartier service papers dated 2002, 2007, 2021 and 2022, and felt pouch

In the realm of vintage Cartier, variety and rarity seem to be the strongest currency. The present Oblique, or as it is more commonly known, the Asymétrique, is a relatively familiar design to the initiated, having been included in several modern Cartier reissues in recent years. However, the fact that it is from the London atelier sets the present watch apart. Aside from the more unusual English versus French hallmarks you might find on London pieces, it goes a step further, featuring classic London design cues: a slimmed down case showing no screws or bars to the case band, opting for spring bars and screws between the updated straightened lugs instead. Showing no rail track on the dial and a prominent liquorice-like printing ink common in London pieces circa 1970.


The Asymétrique is an early triumph in daring shapes. First introduced in 1936, this was one of the only Cartier dress watches to feature an asymmetrical design. Timepieces featuring this angled dial are often racing or aviation watches. It seems fitting Jean-Jacques Cartier would revisit this style only 3 years after premiering the iconic Crash. Under the creative direction of Jean-Jacques, the Cartier London workshop emerged as a bastion of experimentation and boldness. While Paris and New York held their own status in the world of luxury, it was London that pushed the boundaries, daring to challenge the status quo of watchmaking culture. In London, larger case sizes and unconventional designs flourished, defying convention and captivating the imagination of connoisseurs worldwide. In particular through exploring exaggerated forms, it can be said that the Oblique is to the Tank what the Crash is to the Baignoire.


The present lot is being offered by the family of the original owner, who purchased the watch from Cartier on New Bond Street in 1970. To our knowledge this is the only Cartier London Ultra Slim 'Oblique' to ever come to auction and is an exciting and rare opportunity to own an iconic and esoteric Cartier wristwatch.