Panerai

The Panerai Radiomir Reference 3646 “Type C” is a timepiece of immense rarity and complexity, crafted in stainless steel and steeped in the historical significance of the early 1940s. Produced in the midst of the Second World War, this particular model, of which, according to our research, only 52 were made, transcends the realm of horology to become a true artefact of military precision and design ingenuity.

The dial of this exceptional piece represents a milestone in Panerai’s innovation, featuring the much-revered “sandwich” construction, first seen in 1941–1942. Crafted from anodised aluminium and signed “RADIOMIR PANERAI”, it replaced its predecessor, the fragile rivet dial, with a superior design that ensured durability in the most demanding conditions. Its luminous hour markers, having gracefully aged to an exquisite dark amber, evoke a sense of timelessness. This rare colouration stems from early experiments with Radiomir luminous paint, a testament to the evolving craftsmanship of the era.

At its heart, this watch is powered by the Rolex/Cortebert Calibre 618, a movement of singular refinement, specially engineered for Panerai. The calibre features 17 jewels and a fully jeweled escapement wheel, underscoring the unparalleled precision of Swiss horological mastery. Adorned with seven Côtes de Genève stripes, the movement is a study in mechanical elegance. The bridge is delicately engraved with “ROLEX 17 RUBIS”, and the balance cock bears the traditional AR/FS (avant/retard) marking—an ode to the balance between art and technical performance.

This Panerai model, manufactured by Rolex for Officine Panerai, represents the epitome of wartime collaboration between two of the greatest names in watchmaking. Produced between 1938 and the early 1950s, the Reference 3646 “Type C” series was limited to the years 1942–1943, making it an exceedingly rare and sought-after item. The elongated fixed lugs and the engraved hallmark of “Rolex S.A.” on the case back, alongside its reference number and seven-digit serial, embody the robustness and precision required by military divers. Historically, this watch served as an indispensable tool for the elite frogmen of both the Italian and German forces during the latter stages of the Second World War. These commandos, trained in Valdagno and Venice, placed their trust in the rugged dependability of the Panerai Radiomir. The delivery of these timepieces to the navy, handled by Guido Panerai & Figlio, was a monumental effort under the strained conditions of wartime logistics, further adding to the historical weight of this exquisite watch.

The Panerai Radiomir Reference 3646 “Type C” is not only a marvel of technical engineering but also an exceptional survivor of military history. With only around 211 known examples of the 3646 in existence, many of which have succumbed to the ravages of time, this particular specimen stands as one of the best-preserved and most thoroughly documented examples ever to surface on the market. Accompanied by an extract of authenticity from Panerai, this watch also comes with what is most likely its original leather strap, further enhancing its desirability and historical integrity. The rarity, provenance, and extraordinary condition elevate it to a status befitting the most discerning collectors and aficionados of military timepieces. In essence, this watch represents far more than the sum of its parts. It is a symbol of courage, craftsmanship, and history, all contained within a masterpiece that has withstood the test of time. For the discerning collector, this is a rare opportunity to acquire not merely a wristwatch, but a living piece of history, whose allure will only deepen with the passing years.