Important Watches: Part I

Important Watches: Part I

View full screen - View 1 of Lot 118. A very fine, large and heavy 18ct gold open-faced keyless fusee one-minute tourbillon watch with up-and-down and Guillaume balance, awarded Especially good 93 Marks in Class ‘A’ at the 1917-1918 Kew/Teddington Trials with original brass bound mahogany deck box | Hallmarked 1920-21 | No. 302-17.

Property from an Erudite Collector

S. Smith & Son Ltd.

A very fine, large and heavy 18ct gold open-faced keyless fusee one-minute tourbillon watch with up-and-down and Guillaume balance, awarded Especially good 93 Marks in Class ‘A’ at the 1917-1918 Kew/Teddington Trials with original brass bound mahogany deck box | Hallmarked 1920-21 | No. 302-17

Live auction begins on:

November 10, 11:00 AM GMT

Estimate

55,000 - 75,000 CHF

Lot Details

Description

· Nicole Nielsen gilded ⅔ plate movement engraved Class A, 93.0 marks, Especially Good, the tourbillon carriage mounted with lever escapement, double roller, Nicole Nielsen type 1 carriage, fusee and chain, Guillaume balance with ruby endstone, blued steel hairspring with terminal curve, signed S. Smith & Son Ltd. Trafalgar Square, London, no. 302-17, makers to the Admiralty and to the Indian Government, barrel cap engraved with Order of the Garter and Admiralty crests

· Silvered dial, Roman numerals, outer minute ring, two recessed subsidiary dials for up-and-down indication and constant seconds, blued steel spade hands, numbered 302-17

· 18ct gold case, stepped rounded bezels, large pusher beside crown for engaging winding, small pusher and olivette for hand-setting, gold cuvette with presentation inscription reading: ‘Purchased with Prize Money Awarded to Arthur Douglas Cowburn for Service at Sea During the Great War 1914-18’, inside case back with London hallmarks for 1920-21, cuvette and inside back with ‘SS’ Smith & Son punch mark and numbered 302-17, thief-proof bow, ‘FT’ Fred Thoms maker’s mark to pendant, the bow, pendant and interior bezel to case back with 18ct hallmarks


diameter 64.5mm 


Accompanied by the original fitted mahogany box with brass corners, glazed and hinged inner protective cover, sprung wooden cradle watch support, interior of the hinged lid with purple velvet lining

Reinhard Meis, Das Tourbillon, Munich: Laterna Magica, 1986, p. 354.

The Horological Journal, Results of Watch Trials, June 1918, Appendix Table 1, p. 108.

One of the finest British Tourbillon watches ever made, this watch achieved an exceptional 93 Marks at the Kew/Teddington Watch Trials of 1917-1918. According to our research, this is the highest mark achieved by a Smith & Son watch in ‘Class A’ Kew/Teddington trials during the period from 1909-1920. The highest mark awarded to Smith & Son for a tourbillon was just half a mark higher (93.5 marks) at the 1908 Kew Trials. Examination of the detailed tables on Tourbillon watches listed in Reinhard Meis’ monograph work, Das Tourbillon, reveals the present watch as the sixth highest marked Tourbillon watch by any British firm tested at Kew/Teddington. The movement was supplied to Smith & Son Ltd by Nicole Nielsen & Co. of London. Adolphe Nicole, established a watchmaking partnership with Julius Phillipe Capt in 1837. In 1870 Sophus Emil Nielsen joined the company and, following the death of Nicole in 1876, the partnership evolved into Nicole, Nielsen & Co. By 1888, the business, run by Nielsen and Nicole's children, evolved into a limited liability company and produced a range of movements including high-quality precision and complication movements, such as tourbillons, which they supplied to firms including Charles Frodsham and S. Smith & Son. 

 

Smith & Son tourbillon watches from their 302-XX series were consistently among the firm’s best performing watches and a summary of those from the series which achieved the highest marks at Kew/Teddington are shown below:

 

302-3 – double roller, fusee tourbillon awarded 90.5 marks, Kew 1905

302-5 – double roller, fusee tourbillon awarded 87.1 marks, Kew 1905

302-7 – double roller, fusee tourbillon awarded 85.8 marks, Kew 1907

302-16 – single roller, fusee tourbillon awarded 90.6 marks, Kew/Teddington 1914

302-12 – double roller, fusee tourbillon awarded 91.4 marks, Kew/Teddington 1912

302-10 – double roller, fusee tourbillon awarded 91 marks, Kew/Teddington 1909

302-17 – double roller, fusee tourbillon awarded 93 marks, Kew/Teddington 1917-18

 

Marks at the Kew/Teddington Observatory Trials were scored out of 100 and were awarded according to the daily rate of variation (maximum 40 marks), change of rate with change of the watch’s position (40 marks) and temperature compensation (20 marks). The Smith & Son Ltd. tourbillon watch shown here was awarded an ‘Especially Good’ 93.0 marks, an exceptional result - just 3.2 marks separated it from the best performing watch in the contest (a watch by Paul Ditisheim). Astonishingly the mean daily rate recorded for this Smith & Son no. 302-17 tourbillon watch in each of the different positions of pendant up, pendant right, pendant left, dial up, dial down varied from just +0.1 seconds to -1.0 second.

 

Observatories in Switzerland, France and England provided independent trials for precision watches and, at the end of the nineteenth and beginning of the twentieth centuries, watchmakers vied with one another obtain the most coveted awards at the observatory contests; results were frequently used in promotional materials by the winners. The trials conducted at Kew/Teddington in England were renowned for being the most rigorous and demanding. Kew trials were also long, the 45-day test period being up to three times the length of those held at some other observatories and testing centres. Placing well in the contests brought considerable prestige and brands poured enormous resources into the preparation of their finest watches for the contests. Due to the exceptionally rigorous nature of the Kew testing procedures, obtaining a Kew ‘A’ certificate was a mark of the highest precision and reliability in watchmaking and, in addition to the finest British watchmakers, the contests attracted the biggest names from Switzerland, including Audemars Piguet, Paul Ditisheim, Golay Fils & Stahl, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Vacheron Constantin and Longines. Watches obtaining Kew certification were often used in critical applications like navigation and military operations, where precision was paramount, making the Kew ‘A’ certificate a coveted endorsement of quality.

 

Following the late summer trials of 1912, the trials were moved from the Kew Observatory to their new home at the National Physical Laboratory at Teddington. Even after this move, the certificates issued at Teddington were still referred to as ‘Kew Certificates’ and ‘Kew’ would continue to be referred to by watchmakers long after the Teddington move (indeed, Rolex continued to mark their best performing wristwatches submitted to Teddington as ‘Kew A’ watches as late as 1951.

 

During observatory trials, watches were usually placed in temporary cases designed specifically for testing purposes. These cases were simple and functional, protecting the movement while allowing easy access for regulation and observation. The trials focused on the accuracy and performance of the movement, independent of the final watch case. Once the movement completed its testing it might be retained by the maker and entered again into a future competition, this could be several years after the original trials had been carried out. When a watchmaker was satisfied with the test results, the movement would be housed in its permanent case for sale or presentation. Movements that had obtained the highest marks and awards were highly coveted and would command a correspondingly high price. Such was the exceptional performance of this Smith & Son tourbillon watch that it clearly merited the very finest gold case, and it is appropriately impressive with a particularly large 64.5mm diameter case. Made in 18ct gold, the watch is heavy with a pleasing weight in the hand.

 

This watch, among the most expensive British timepieces available at the time of its purchase, was gifted to Arthur Douglas Cowburn as a testament of the high regard in which he was held. Arthur Douglas Cowburn served as a Surgeon Lieutenant Commander in the Royal Navy Volunteer Reserve (RNVR) during World War I. He held a significant position as a medical officer and was honoured by being Mentioned in Dispatches (MID), recognizing his distinguished service and gallantry in action. His RNVR role indicates that he volunteered for naval service rather than being part of the regular Royal Navy. His service number or reference (31516) is associated with official military records detailing his contributions. It is interesting that the benefactors clearly wished to gift Cowburn a watch of naval, deck watch style; the watch has a marine-style silvered dial and is housed in its original fitted mahogany and brass banded deck box with specially glazed viewing aperture.

 

S. Smith & Son was founded in 1851 by Samuel Smith as a prestigious British watchmaking and precision instrument firm. Initially known for producing and selling high-quality watches and marine chronometers, the company gained a reputation for their refined precision watches. Under the leadership of Samuel’s son, Herbert Samuel Smith, the company expanded, but in its early years, it was renowned for its fine craftsmanship in horology. Their marine chronometers and dashboard clocks became particularly popular among navigators, explorers, and later, the automotive industry.