Patek Philippe

The perpetual calendar chronograph is a complication that is synonymous with Patek Philippe, and over the years the brand has produced some of its most important and iconic references within the range, including the landmark 2499 and 5970 - considered by collectors and connoisseurs to be the most beautiful watches ever made by any brand. This illustrious lineage of watches originates in 1941, from a reference that is arguably just as beautiful and perhaps even more important than the rest: the legendary 1518.

Being the first ever serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, Patek Philippe faced the challenge of designing a dial layout which could effectively display every complication. The solution to their problems was found in the design of the reference 1526 perpetual calendar introduced one year prior in 1940, which featured dual apertures below 12 for the day and month, with date and moonphase displayed on a subsidiary register above 6 o’clock. This format not only clearly communicated the perpetual calendar reading, it also conveniently left dial real-estate open at 3 and 6 o’clock, perfectly accommodating the classic chronograph layout as well. Thus, the dial design of the 1518 was born, unknowingly also setting the precedent and gold standard for all future perpetual calendar production.

Differing from its successor, the near-sacred reference 2499, reference 1518 was cased in a smaller 35mm case, also featuring classic cushion shaped pushers and a more simple case design. Though the 2499 is known for its wrist presence, 1518 seems altogether more reserved and understated, and has become more relevant in recent years as collecting tastes move back towards smaller case diameters. Produced until 1954, less than 300 examples of the reference were produced in total, across all metals. This scarcity, along with the elegant design and classic complication reaffirms reference 1518 as one of the most important watches on the market.