Fine Jewels

Fine Jewels

View full screen - View  of Etruscan Revival gold necklace, circa 1865 .

Revival: A Unique Collection of 19th-century Jewels

Robert Phillips

Etruscan Revival gold necklace, circa 1865

Estimate

6,000 - 8,000 GBP

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Lot Details

Description

Suspending from two woven chains with annular links, a continuous fringe of palmette drops each decorated with an acanthus leaf motif, with relief veining and gold beadwork, within a ropetwist frame, to a clasp of similar design, length approximately 390mm, maker's mark.

National Archaeological Museum of Naples, Italy, Colossal Krater from Altamura, circa 350 BC, the vase has similar foliate motifs to those which decorate the necklace.


Robert Adam Phillips and his brother, Magnus Albert Phillips, established a retail jewellery business before 1839, operating under the name Phillips Brothers at 31 Cockspur Street, London.


Robert Phillips was a contemporary and acquaintance of both Fortunato Pio Castellani and Carlo Giuliano, and he emerged as one of London’s most prominent and renowned manufacturing jewellers, predominantly working in the revivalist style. In 1867, Phillips participated in the Paris Exhibition, where he showcased jewellery set with coral imported from Southern Italy and was awarded a gold medal for his collection of pieces inspired by archaeological finds. During the Victorian era, coral jewellery was highly popular, and in 1870, the King of Naples honoured Phillips with a decoration for his contributions to the coral trade.


Phillips was significantly influenced by Sir Henry Layard's excavations at Nineveh, which sparked his interest in Assyrian art. Notable examples of Assyrian relief carving, which influenced his work, can still be seen in the British Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art.


In addition to his interest in Assyrian art, Phillips also designed jewellery in the Scandinavian style and frequently incorporated period-engraved gems into his pieces. By 1851, Phillips was working independently alongside his son, Alfred Phillips, who continued to design in his father’s style following Robert’s death in 1881. The company ceased operations in 1902.