An Elaborate Bukharan Woman’s Headdress, Circa 1900

The Bukharan Jews of Central Asia (now the countries of Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Kyrgyzstan) developed distinctive costumes, jewelry, and embroidered fabrics which served as a reflection of an individual’s status and wealth. Jewelry formed an important part of a Bukharan girl’s dowry. In advance of her wedding, wealthy families would invite a goldsmith to reside in their home, where he would remain until the jewelry for the dowry was completed. The jewelry remained the private property of the bride throughout her life. It was proudly worn on holidays and special occasions and was bequeathed to her daughters upon her death.

Physical Description

Sumptuous headdress ornamented with silver gilt hexagonal plaque at top, two beaded plaques in boteh pattern on either side, and a forehead band with gold pendants, turquoise, carnelian, glass “gems,” and silk fringes (diameter: 7 in.; 178 mm). Several of the small turquoise inset stones lacking.

Literature 

Alia Ben-Ami (ed.), In All Their Finery: Jewels from the Jewish World (Jerusalem: The Israel Museum, 2002). 

James S. Synder, 3 x 50 @ 50: Collection Highlights (Jerusalem: The Israel Museum, 2015).