Royal & Noble
Royal & Noble
Property from the Berkeley Collection at Spetchley Park
A group of Pugin Gothic Revival copes and chasubles and other complementary accessories, England, after a design by Augustus Welby Pugin, mid 19th century
No reserve
Lot Closed
January 18, 06:20 PM GMT
Estimate
3,000 - 5,000 GBP
Lot Details
Description
Property from the Berkeley Collection at Spetchley Park
A group of Pugin Gothic Revival copes and chasubles and other complementary accessories, England, after a design by Augustus Welby Pugin, mid 19th century
comprising of two ivory damask copes with embroidered velvet and metal-thread vestigial hoods and woven banded edging, the hoods centered by the IHS Christogram, together with two chasubles, one of more traditional style like a cape, both with Latin cross orphrey panels worked in either needlework on satin and velvet embroidery, with accessories comprising of three stoles, one maniple, two chalice veils and two burses, all complementary in design
(Qty 12)
Largest cope approximately 273cm. high, 152cm. wide; 8ft.¹¹⁄₄in. high, 4ft.¹¹⁄₈in. wide
Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin (1812-1852) was an English Roman Catholic, and very successful designer and architect who became an impassioned supporter and propagandist of the Gothic revival, and had considerable influence over Victorian taste. He designed furniture, ceramics, ecclesiastical gilt plate, church furnishings and textiles in the Medieval style. They were for churches designed and built by Pugin. He acquired 16th century vestments for inspiration. His vestments used geometric motifs, and repeat patterns, and the cope material was often repeat patterns of silk damask, and the banding of geometric motifs shows the influence of tile designs. The hoods were designed by Pugin as a highly decorative item in their own right. It was clearly seen on the back of the cope when the priest is facing the altar. This was an established practice in the 16th century, and a tradition that Pugin revived. For Pugin vestments, see the collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London (A hood, Inv.T.287-1989; Vestment set, Inv.293 - J-1989, all made for his church St Augustine's Abbey, Ramsgate, Kent). The same style of decoration on a hood, on a cope of cloth of gold (woven at Spitalfields), from vestments from St Mary's College, Oscott, Birmingham, probably embroidered by Lonsdale & Tyler circa 1837. The same damask type was used on a cope with orphrey with the four Evangelists, and saints, St Peter's Church, Marlow, Buckinghamshire, designed by Pugin, made by Mrs Powell of Hardman & Co, Birmingham, circa 1850.
For comprehensive discussion of the interest in England in the 19th century in the return to the earlier traditions of the English church, see Pauline Johnstone, High Fashion in the Church, The place of church vestments in the history of Art from the ninth to the nineteenth century, Mandy Publishing, Leeds, 2002, Chp. VI, The nineteenth century and later, pp.113-138, England and the Tractarians, pp.116-128.