An exceptional gold, silver and turquoise-inlaid bronze garment hook, Late Eastern Zhou dynasty, 3rd century BC | 東周末 公元前三世紀 銅錯金銀嵌綠松石獸首帶鉤

Samuel Wong, Hong Kong.

Eskenazi Ltd, London.

黃言信，香港

埃斯卡納齊，倫敦

Remarkable for its sumptuous and intricate inlays of gold, silver and turquoise, an astounding amount of which remains intact and preserved with its original lustrous colour, this substantial garment hook (daigou) is a superb paradigm showing exemplary workmanship and technological sophistication of the bronze workshops, as well as the peak of luxury in the late Eastern Zhou dynasty. Given its elaborate character and exceptional weight (approx. 0.64 kg), which would be possibly unwieldy to wear, it would not be a functional garment accessory, if it was worn at all. Belt hooks of similar weights were likely presented to the owner - someone of exceptionally high social status - in recognition of their outstanding achievements, thereby acquiring a ceremonial significance (Jenny So, 1995, p. 82). 

This ostentatious adornment is cast with the iconic club-shaped outline with the upper surface divided into three facets along its length. The surface is magnificently ornamented in gold with wide bands of interlocked quatrefoils embellished by hooks and volutes and alternating with smaller quatrefoil motifs linked by a vertical line. The whole elaborate design is set against a dense mosaic ground of small turquoise pieces, even the side edges are thoughtfully contrasted by silver-inlaid stylized scrolls. It is set with a small upturned feline hook inlaid in gold and silver on one end. The underside and the flat top of the button are also inlaid with intricate criss-cross patterns similarly embellished by hooks and scrolls, with some silver showing through the malachite encrustation. The deliberate selection of geometric designs can be seen as the last major innovation and secularization of China's archaic bronze tradition, guided essentially by secular concerns, reflecting the increasing secularism bolstered by rising interest in philosophy over religion which led to the disappearance of many ritual vessel shapes. 

Compare a related gold, silver and turquoise-inlaid garment hook (17.8cm), with the use of gold cloison, in the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, Washington D.C., accession no. S1987.413; and another with only gold and turquoise inlay, but with wide gold bands of motifs similar to the present lot, accession no. S1987.414. Compare also a gold and turquoise-inlaid garment hook, where the head is a later marriage and from the collections of Sunglin, C.T. Loo, Richard C. Bull and Dr Robert Jacobsen, sold at Christie’s New York, 25th September 2020, lot 1529; and another from the Junkunc Collection, but with much of the inlays gone, sold at our New York rooms, 21st September 2021, lot 47.