Fine Watches
Fine Watches
Reference 3050 | A white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases | Circa 1990
Lot Closed
September 21, 01:33 PM GMT
Estimate
20,000 - 40,000 GBP
Lot Details
Description
Breguet
Classique Perpetual Calendar, Reference 3050
A white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases
Circa 1990
Dial: silvered guilloché
Calibre: cal. 502 automatic, 35 jewels
Movement number: 1'710
Case: 18k white gold, snap-on case back
Case number: 4'101
Closure: 18k white gold Breguet buckle
Size: 36 mm diameter
Signed: case, dial and movement
Box: yes
Papers: yes
Accessories: Breguet Certificate of Origin and Guarantee, numbered hang tag, 18k white gold setting pin and presentation case
In the midst of the so-called Quartz crisis of the 1970s, when the industry of mechanical watchmaking was at stake due to the introduction of Japanese quartz movements to the market, many Swiss manufacturers came up with different solutions to attract and retain their market share and allure. Breguet's defense to the threat of becoming redundant was to exploit their tremendous heritage and savoir faire in watchmaking, recognizing the perpetual calendar as a complication quartz watches could not compete with. Thus, a young Daniel Roth, who had been entrusted with the arduous task of resurrecting Breguet's fame in 1975, developed reference 3050 with a strong dial layout and movement inspiration from a pocket watch he had conceived during his watchmaking education in watchmaking.
With its distinguishable elegant finishing, the astonishing 8 mm thin case with a 36 mm diameter of reference 3050 houses an automatic movement powering the perpetual calendar function. The symmetrical composition of the dial sitting on a silver galvanised gold plate with a charming clou de Paris guilloché finishing is illustrative of Breguet's impressive craftmanship. In fact, it is said that at the time, only two or three examples of the reference would be produced annually, given the lengthiness and difficulty of producing such watches, involving more than thirty watchmaking professions.
Given the success of reference 3050 at the time, in 1986 Roth developed reference 3310, a perpetual calendar that included a power reserve indicator and transformed the symmetrical layout of reference 3050.
The present lot stands as good example of reference 3050 in white gold and will be a great addition to any discerning collection, bringing not only a touch of sophistication but will also bring in an appreciation for the history of haute horlogerie.