Centuries of Time: A Private Collection
Centuries of Time: A Private Collection
Morisset & Lukins, London
An impressive gold, enamel, diamond, ruby and pearl-set oval cylinder watch made for the Chinese market Circa 1790, no. 2635
Auction Closed
May 14, 02:23 PM GMT
Estimate
30,000 - 50,000 CHF
Lot Details
Description
Morisset & Lukins, London
An impressive gold, enamel, diamond, ruby and pearl-set oval cylinder watch made for the Chinese market
Circa 1790, no. 2635
• Movement: oval gilded 3/4 plate, cylinder escapement, plain flat three-arm balance, signed and numbered Morriset & Lukins 2635, plain gold polished cuvette with apertures for winding and hand-setting
• Dial: oval with blue translucent enamel over an engine-turned ground, heightened with diamond-set floral sprays, two white subsidiary dials for time with Roman numerals and seconds with Arabic ring, the whole surrounded by borders of opaque white and translucent red guillloché enamel
• Case: gold, the back with translucent blue enamel over an engine-turned ground, set with a large diamond and ruby-set star motif, the front and back bezels set with two rows of split pearls, the pendant further set with split-pearls, stirrup bow, polished gold cuvette
length including pendant and bow 87mm, width 55mm
Dating to the end of the 18th century, only a very small number of similarly opulent, oval, gem-set watches are known; the most obviously comparable of which are the small series of oval watches made by William Anthony, which date to the same period as the present watch. Like Morisset and Lukins's watch, most (thought not all) of Anthony's watches feature dials divided in half with hours and minutes above a separate subsidiary seconds dial. However, Anthony's dials are usually of plain white enamel, while the dial of the present watch is elaborately decorated with blue and red flinqué enamel, heightened with diamond-set floral sprays; a sophisticated white enamel border surrounds and links the time and seconds dials. Indeed, although the case back of this watch is arresting with its rich and beautiful decorative scheme, it is the dial that truly sets it apart from other watches destined for the Chinese Market - the vast majority of which (excepting those with automata) featured either plain white or plain gold dials.
Robert Morisset and Charles Lukins worked as jewellers, goldsmiths, and enamellers at 22 Denmark Street, Soho. The two traded together from 1776 to 1799 and specialized in watches for the Chinese market. James Morisset, an important London goldsmith, also served as a partner in the firm.