An emerald-set gold bracelet, South India, 19th century

Examples of nineteenth century gold jewellery from South India are usually set with rubies, and it is uncommon to find bracelets set with emeralds. This type of bracelet was worn by the ruling class in South India and gifted as a mark of favour (Stronge, Smith and Harle 1988, p.93). There are two comparable South Indian gold bangles with makara-head terminals in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, one set with pink sapphires and another with rubies (03291/(IS) and 03293A/(IS), illus. ibid., no.91, p.93). Related bangles were popular in Britain in the second half of the nineteenth century. An example is worn by a young woman in an oil painting by Dante Gabriel Rosetti, The Beloved (‘The Bride’), circa 1865-66, now in the Tate Gallery, London (N03053). 

For similar bracelets which have sold at auction, see Christie’s South Kensington, 20 April 2007, lot 124 and Bonhams London, 6 October 2015, lot 150.