Patek Philippe

The Heures Universelles watches are among the most coveted of all Patek Philippe’s vintage production, and examples form the centrepiece of some of the world’s most important watch collections. Reference 605 was one of the earliest models to incorporate the ingenious world time system developed by the famed watchmaker Louis Cottier; production began in 1937 and continued for approximately thirty years, during that time less than one hundred examples were made. Research suggests that three-quarters of the reference 605 watches made were delivered in yellow gold cases, with just one quarter in pink gold. The model was initially produced with plain metal satin finished centres in tones of champagne, pink or silver.

The Heures Universelles function in reference 605 is operated via the bezel, a mechanism shared by this and the wristwatch reference 1415. To set the watch up, the user simply rotates the bezel so that their current location is displayed at the twelve o’clock position, and they then advance the hands to the correct local time. The recessed 24-hour ring is geared to turn automatically as time advances, and will therefore indicate the correct time in all zones around the world. Since the case, dial and movement are all integral to the technical function of the watch, Louis Cottier supervised the production of each element.

Louis Cottier (1894-1966) was born in Carouge and attended the Horological School of Geneva before going to work for his father and horological mentor Emmanuel Cottier (1858-1930). Like his father, Louis was a talented mechanical genius and went on to develop numerous patents that changed the face of watchmaking. Reacting to the realities of the Great Depression, Cottier saw a niche in high-end watchmaking and focused his talents on the development of complicated watches for Patek Philippe, Agassiz, Rolex, and Vacheron Constantin. Foremost among these discoveries was his development of the world time mechanism in the 1930s. This invention would inspire some of the most iconic Patek Philippe complications.  

The present watch, purchased in Geneva in 2004 is a beautiful example with wonderfully raised hard enamel signature. The case is in exceptional condition and very nice and crisp. In addition, the watch is retailed by Gübelin, the prestigious retailer, founded in Lucerne in 1854 and was then as now, one of the most exclusive retailers of fine horology in the world.

The reference 605 HU was first introduced in 1939 until approximately 1964 with the majority made in yellow gold. There are only 12 known pink gold examples, three of which with pink dials which includes the current example.