Important Watches: Part I
Important Watches: Part I
Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 25554BA Yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases and bracelet Circa 1986 | 愛彼 | 25554BA型號「Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar」黃金萬年曆鍊帶腕錶備月相顯示，年份約1986
Auction Closed
May 10, 11:59 AM GMT
Estimate
150,000 - 300,000 CHF
Lot Details
Description
Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 25554BA
Yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases and bracelet
Circa 1986
愛彼
25554BA型號「Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar」黃金萬年曆鍊帶腕錶備月相顯示，年份約1986
Dial: black with small Audemars Piguet signature
Calibre: cal. 2120/2800 automatic, 38 jewels
Movement number: 273'880
Case: 18k yellow gold, back secured by 8 screws
Case number: C34’344, 430
Closure: 18k yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet and 18k white gold folding clasp
Dimensions: 39 mm, bracelet circumference approx. 180 mm
Signed: case, dial and movement
Box: no
Papers: no
Accessories: none
This present lot gathers the very best of what Audemars Piguet can possibly offer and what a demanding watch collector could possibly dream for.
When it comes to the celebrated Le Brassus based Manufacture, two thoughts immediately spring to mind: Royal Oak and perpetual calendar.
The Royal Oak has changed with image of the brand as well as the watch panorama forever by creating a new category that has become the most desirable one of all: the luxury sport watches.
The Perpetual calendar is part of the very DNA of Audemars Piguet even before its creation, being the complication was chosen by Jules Louis Audemars himself for his school watch (also equipped with quarter repeating and dead beat second mechanisms) that he completed before 1875 and kept improving for the following 20 years.
There is no surprise that AP decided to equip their spearhead model with this complication. The Royal Oak was first introduced with a perpetual calendar under the reference 5554 (later renamed 25554) in 1983 and made available the following year. This first iteration of this “super model” was equipped with the caliber 2120/2800, which did not have the leap year indicator. Interestingly, while this indication first appeared on a wristwatch on an Audemars Piguet ref. 5516 in 1955, the perpetual calendar Royal Oak omitting the leap year are the most sought-after specimens. This might be thanks to the unique resonance the terms “first series” has in every collector’s heart.
While the 25554 was produced in various metals and configurations, this present lot is probably both one of the rarest and desirable versions ever created. Preserved in most attractive condition, this yellow gold piece features a very seldom seen black dial. This combination creates an incredibly striking and attractive contrast. It re-enforces the character, identity and desirability of the master piece of Gérald Genta.
Sotheby’s is very honored to present such an exceptional piece, on behalf of an important private collector, to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak.