Fine Jewels Online
Fine Jewels Online
Lot Closed
March 4, 01:26 PM GMT
Estimate
2,000 - 4,000 EUR
Lot Details
Description
Property of a Lady
Castellani | Broche or, "Millefiori"
Castellani | Gold brooch 'Millefiori'
Formant un dôme réhaussé d'un décor de fleurs, le tour orné d'or tressé, diamètre 25 mm environ, signée Castellani, poinçon français d'import pour l'or 18K (750°/00), poids brut 9.84 g, vers 1860.
Of bombé design, decorated with a cluster of flowers, the border ornated with mesh gold, diameter approximately 25mm, signed Castellani, French import assay mark for 18 carat gold, gross weight 9.84 grams; circa 1860.
Geoffrey C. Munn, Castellani and Giuliano - Revivalist Jewellers of the 19th Century, Fribourg, 1986, p. 50, fig. 45 et 46, pour une image d'une broche Millefiori avec un serpent lové au centre et une inscripion en latin ainsi que son étude préparatoire par Michelangelo Caetani.
Geoffrey C. Munn, Castellani and Giuliano - Revivalist Jewellers of the 19th Century, Fribourg, 1986, pg. 50, fig. 45 and 46, for an illustration of a Millefiori brooch with a serpent nestled in its center, accompanied by its preparatory study by Michelangelo Caetani.
The Castellani and Italian Archaeological Jewelry, the Bard Graduate Centre for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture, New York, November 2004 to February, 2005, where a bracelet composed of six motifs identical to the brooch was exhibited, item n°29, pg. 347 in the catalogue.
The name Castellani has been lauded has a major actor of the return to the antique in jewelry since its beginning, early 19e century. This aesthetic choice was the result of the meeting of its founder, the goldsmith Fortunato Pio Castellani with the archaeologist Michelangelo Caetani, duke of Sermoneta. The latter inspired Castellani to draw inspiration from antique pieces, which translated with the revival of antique goldsmith techniques like filigree, cameos and Etruscan granulation. The millefiori design is a perfect example of revivalist jewelry and of the association between Castellani and Caetani, since the latter realized preparatory studies of millefiori jewels. Of circular shape, with its cluster of flowers, surrounded with twisted wires and precious gold details. Most often, with serpents, putti or doves nestled in its center, it was used to ornate studs, bracelet links and brooches.
Millefiori has become a staple among Castellani’s jewels and many pieces bearing this design are exhibited in major international museums and belong to renowned collections. The British Museum, London, owns a set of studs ornated with ram heads among a millefiori background (inventory n° 1002.1043) and a brooch with a putto within a millefiori surround (inventory n° 1002.128). Our example, stamped with the two interlaced C at the reverse, is in very good condition and a wonderful example of the antique revivalist movement.