A gem-set gold 'lotus' ring Java, Indonesia, 12th century | 十二世紀 印尼爪哇 金嵌紅寶蓮紋戒指

Jewellery has been the most prevalent form of ancient goldware across Southeast Asia, of which the most impressive traces of Indonesian civilisation are from Java. The Tuyet Nguyet and Stephen Markbreiter Collection includes a significant portion of gold jewellery from this region dating from the 7th to early 16th century, a period also known as the Classical Period, illustrating Javanese goldsmiths' copious variety and intricate artistry.

The Classical Period is conventionally divided into three phases: Early Classical Period (7th - 9th century), where the political power was based in Central Java; Middle Classical Period (10th - mid 13th century), where the authority shifted to East Java; and Late Classical Period (mid 13th - early 16th century), which is characterised by the Majapahit Empire - one of the greatest of the early Indonesian kingdoms. The Majapahit Empire came to its demise in 1519 with the arrival of Islam, signalling the end of the Classical Period as a whole.

During this period, Javanese goldsmiths were highly esteemed in society, listed among the five main crafts. They produced some of the most unique and intricate gold jewellery, particularly rings. Their skill was highly advanced, creating designs that significantly diverged from their Southeast Asian counterparts, such as rings with auspicious motifs, horn-shaped rings, wire-wrapped rings, rings associated with Hindu-Buddhist iconography, and ear clips.

古典珠寶常被視為金器板塊中的典範，當中最能體現印尼古國文明的珠寶莫過於爪哇金飾。雪月亞洲藝術珍品收藏正囊括了一組印尼爪哇七至十六世紀初的金飾。此時期被稱爲印度的古典時期，當時金匠的造詣高深精絕、靈巧精緻，達到登峰造極的水平，創造出多款新穎的款式及紋飾。

印度的古典時期普遍可分爲三個階段：早古典時期（七至九世紀），當時政權集中於中爪哇省；中古典時期（十至十三世紀中），政權慢移至東爪哇省；再到滿者伯夷立國，標誌著後古典時期的開始（十三至十六世紀初）。滿者伯夷國立國於爪哇島東部，乃一個重要的印度教古國，巔峰時期其領土範圍遠至泰國南部、菲律賓、東帝汶。後期帝國慢慢受到伊斯蘭文化的影響，勢力逐漸衰落，1519年亡國，結束了整個古典時期。

古典時期的爪哇非常看重金匠，金藝被視為五大手工行業之一。爪哇金匠打造的黃金珠寶，尤其是戒指，樣式別致，風格獨特。他們超凡的技藝使爪哇在東南亞國家之中獨占鰲頭，創造出多款新穎款式，例如刻有吉祥圖案的戒指、纍絲戒指、具印度教和佛教意象的戒指，以及耳夾等等。