CARTIER | A RARE 'TUTTI FRUTTI' DIAMOND AND GEM SET BROOCH 卡地亞 | 'Tutti Frutti' 鑽石 配 寶石 別針

Cf.: Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary, New York, 1984, pg. 175, for illustrations of other brooches of similar motifs, dated 1925-1929.

At the height of the Art Deco era, Cartier created a sensational jewelry style depicting lush leaves, berries and blossoms known as the ‘tuttifrutti’ (fruit salad) in the 1920s. Sumptuous engraved gems and beads of striking colours were mixed and matched to create flower vases and fruit bowls, inspired by the Mughal aesthetics. Famous patrons of these vibrant brooches include W.K Vanderbilt and Mrs George Blumenthal, each with a specially inspired jewel during the twenties; Sir Elton John is also known to own a vase brooch of similar motif from the 1990s. This brooch of lot 1622 is a beautiful example of tuttifrutti jewelry as a flower vasedecorated with carved rubies, sapphires and emeralds, and an attractive rose-cut diamond as the base. This may be one of the few examples of a tutti-frutti brooch mounted with a diamond of noticeable size, which is exceptional and rare.

上世紀20年代，裝飾藝術風格盛行，卡地亞以樹葉、漿果和花朵為主題，創作出一種令世人驚歎的珠寶風格，名為‘Tutti Frutti’（水果錦囊）系列，一時間風頭無兩。這些用大量色彩鮮艷的雕刻寶石和寶石珠所搭配組成的花瓶或果籃形珠寶風格鮮明，很明顯是受到了印度莫臥兒王朝審美的影響。‘Tutti Frutti’系列的別針尤為鮮艷奪目，廣受珠寶藏家們的喜愛，著名收藏家美國名媛W.K Vanderbilt夫人和George Blumenthal夫人分別擁有一件20年代的‘Tutti Frutti’別針。據稱，音樂家Elton John爵士在90年代收藏了一枚類似風格的花瓶形別針。此次上拍的Lot 1622是一枚用雕刻紅寶石、藍寶石、祖母綠及玫瑰型切割鑽石鑲嵌而成的花瓶形別針，可謂一件典型且精美絕倫的Tutti Frutti珠寶。此別針或許是Tutti Frutti系列中鑲嵌最大單颗鑽石的一枚，為非常稀有罕見的珍品。