ONYX, RUBY AND DIAMOND JABOT PIN, CARTIER, CIRCA 1925

Set with oval rubies, cushion-shaped diamonds and polished onyx, supporting a series of rubies, the keeper set with black onyx, an oval ruby and circular-cut diamonds, signed Cartier, partial maker's mark for Renault, few onyx deficient.

Signed CARTIER, partial French maker's mark for Renault, assay marks for platinum. Signs of repair to the reverse, one diamond later replaced. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 6.00 - 7.00 carats, on average I-J colour, SI-I clarity, included, as gauged and graded in the mount. Two small single cut diamonds deficient. Rubies with abrasions and nicks. Onyx deficient in several places. In overall good condition. Gross weight approximately 27 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This jabot pin is inspired by the traditional Indian sarpech, a turban ornament. Europe first came into contact with Indian jewellery at the time of the first Great Exhibition in London in 1851. In 1876, Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India, and from 1880 Indian jewellery enjoyed a certain craze in both England and France. Cartier’s initial contacts with Indian princes visiting London or Paris were made in the early 1900s. The firms’ first commission for an Indian-style jewel came not from an Indian client, but from Queen Alexandra in 1901. Cartiers’ Indian and Persian style jewels were showcased in a marvellous exhibition held at their New York Fifth Avenue premises in 1913. The exhibition comprised fifty pieces in all, of which twenty were described as ‘From Indian Art’.

Generally the role played by the Indian style in Cartier’s work can be broken down into four aspects. Firstly, the commissions received by Indian clients and their influence on the design of other Cartier pieces; secondly, the use of carved Mughal emeralds and other stones imported from India; thirdly the import of Indian antique and modern jewellery which Cartier resold unaltered, and lastly, Cartier’s creation of a fashion for Indian-style jewellery among non-Indian clients.

This jabot pin is one of these Indian inspired creations. The towering sarpech (jiqka) and the drooping turah, both Indian turban ornaments, influenced jewellery designers in Paris, London and New York. The principal component of the sarpech is the Kashmir palm (boteh) or mango leaf, a cone shape bent over at the point, found in Persian Mir and Serabend carpets. From 1912 the mango leaf inspired the basic shape of the Cartier version of the fashionable aigrette. In the 1920s, it was adapted with a drop stone dangling from its tip to be worn as lapel and hat brooches.