A RARE EMERALD, RUBY AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CIRCA 1750

Designed as a shell set with emeralds and old-mine- and rose-cut diamonds, crowned by six cabochon emeralds each applied with a ruby and diamond flower, suspending a cabochon emerald and two emerald-set link chain, one embellished with an oval ruby and the other to a smaller shell terminating with two variously-shaped ruby tassels, mounted in silver topped gold and yellow gold, brooch fitting detachable, fitted case.

Lady Anne Maud Rhys, 7th Duchess of Ciudad Rodrigo (1910-1998), descendant of 1st Duke of Wellington.

Cf.: Diana Scarisbrick, Brillant Europe: Jewels from European Courts, Belgium, 2008, pg. 169, for an illustration of this brooch, stating the following: Brooch from the Spanish royal family

Spain(?), 1740-60

Gold, silver, emeralds, rubies and diamonds, 130 x 75mm

The brooch is designed as a shell outlined in diamonds. Further lines of diamonds run between emerald ribs, crowned by six cabochon emeralds to which sprays of ruby and diamond flowers are applied, highlighted by groups of small diamonds. An emerald drop, a small shell and emerald chains ending in diamond tassels hang beneath. Illustrating Spanish taste for deep green emeralds, this brooch unites three characteristic motifs of the rococo style - shells, flowers and tassels. Pinned to the corsage, the flowers bordering the low-cut neckline and the tassels falling down to the waist, this handsome brooch would have stood out against a stiff brocade court dress, drawing attention to the royal wearer.

Mounted in silver topped gold and yellow gold. Emeralds are on average of medium green colour and medium light to strong saturation, overall well matched; rubies are of medium pinkish to purplish red colour and medium to medium strong saturation; under 10x magnification, emeralds and rubies are with typical inclusions and some are surface reaching, with nicks, abrasions and some minor chips; some rubies may possibly with foil-backing which is commonly found in the jewellery from 17th to 19th century. Diamonds are bright and lively. Signs of minor wear to the metal commensurate with age, silver are tarnished and gold with very minor discolouration. Overall in excellent condition in consideration of its age.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

ROCOCO REFINEMENT The 18^th century was a special era for Jewellery – when royal jewels achieved a new level of perfection, led by the French Monarchy. The rococo style, which originated in Paris in the early 18^th century, was soon adopted by other neighboring European countries; idealized by elegance, curves and natural foliate motifs. By the late 18^th century, archaeological discoveries in Pompeii became sensational news for the art scene and inspired classical ideals of beauty. Classicism in jewels flourished with these decorative motifs, and gems were mounted in closed back settings using silver and gold. In line with the trendy décolleté (low neckline garments) of the time, necklaces as well as brooches for the bust were favored among rococo jewels. Candles were the choice of lighting in the evening during the 18^th century, and grand events were usually scheduled for the night. Magnificent jewels were an essential element to the court dresses, which dazzled under the marvelous chandeliers.

Throughout the century, Spanish royalty enjoyed coloured stones as much as diamonds. Spain had developed emerald mines in Colombia and Peru since the 16^th century, and the best of these gems were mounted in intricate jewels with extremely fine detail. Under King Philip V (1683-1746), who was the grandson of Louis XIV, and his son Charles III (1716-1788) Spain was prosperous and institutions were reformed. Jewellery played a pivotal role in the royal courts, and emerald parures characterized the traditional preference of Spanish Jewellery: with necklaces, rings, stomachers, brooches, earrings, and more. The Spanish royalty had a penchant for deep green emeralds, which were highly valued for thousands of years. However very few pieces of jewels from this era have survived through the ages, as almost all precious pieces at the time were destined for remounting. Due to its high intrinsic value, it was very common for the gems to be unmounted and redesigned to suit the wearer as it kept up with the changes in fashion and taste. Even if they were not entirely remounted, it was common for the jewels to be dismantled and separated due to the rarity of the gemstones.

Lot 1797 is an extraordinary jewel dating back to the mid-18^th century, which has survived more than two hundred fifty years.  Cherished and treasured by the royals, this stunning emerald brooch was spared of remounting, and has been well preserved throughout the ages. The jewel embodies the aesthetic ideals of the time, with nature themes of rococo style flourishes within the design. The brooch takes the form of a shell encrusted with diamonds, emeralds and rubies, embellished with sprays of flowers on the crowning emerald cabochons – perfected with emerald drops, gold tassels and a smaller shell. In the 18^th century this brooch would’ve been pinned to the corsage of the royal Spanish court dress, sparkling under the candlelit banquets. Later this jewel was owned by Lady Anne Maud Rhys, 7^th Duchess of Ciudad Rodrigo (1910-1998), descendant of the 1^st Duke of Wellington. She was seen wearing this brooch as the centerpiece of her dress as illustrated below. This remarkable brooch is not only unique due to its beautiful design and the quality of gems, but also due to the fact that it has survived hundreds of years in an impressive condition while accentuating generations of royalties.