- 1796
AN IMPORTANT RUBY AND DIAMOND BROOCH, 'BELLFLOWERS', VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, 1960S
Estimate
3,200,000 - 4,800,000 HKD
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Description
Designed as a pair of blooming bellflowers, the petals mystery-set with calibré-cut rubies, one embellished with pavé-set diamonds and the other with calibré-cut diamonds, to the baguette diamond stems with marquise-shaped diamond leaves and sepals, mounted in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold, maker's marks for Van Cleef & Arpels, French assay marks, three rubies deficient.
Literature
Cf.: Xavier Barral, The Art & Science of Gems: Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, 2016, pg. 178, for an illustration of a brooch of similar design, dated 1969.
Condition
Stamped 750, OR and with French assay marks for 18 karat gold. Stamped PT, 950 and with French assay marks for platinum, with maker's marks for Van Cleef & Arpels. Rubies estimated to weigh approximately 18.00 to 22.00 carats in total, are of medium to medium dark tone, purplish red to red colour, and medium strong to strong saturation, under 10x magnification, majority with minor typical inclusions, a few moderately included with some surface reaching, some nicks and very minor abrasions, a few with minor chips, but all are not noticeable when worn. Diamonds estimated to weigh approximately 13.00 - 15.00 carats in total, are about F to G colour, VVS to VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Three rubies deficient, not noticeable when worn. Signs of minor wear to the metal commensurate with age. The two flowers may have been worn separately, fittings deficient. Overall in very good condition.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
Catalogue Note
A BELLFLOWER'S MYSTIQUE Patented in 1933, the Mystery Set™ technique remained one of the most unique inventions by Van Cleef & Arpels. Created by setting each stone in such a way that no prongs are visible, the level of expertise required to make Mystery Set™ is reserved for an exclusive realm of a small number of master jewelers. By faceting each stone to fit extremely narrow gold rails, no thicker than 0.2mm, the gems when mounted would look free of any metal settings that hold them in place. However, this technique requires intense precision with immense patience, to create three dimensional jewels within complex designs.
This unusual bellflower clip brooch offered in Lot 1796 by Van Cleef & Arpels is a child of the 1960s, depicting two delicate bellflowers in bloom using the Mystery Setting™. An exceptionally rare jewel that illustrates the craftsmanship of the Maison, the design for the brooch was published in the 1963 issue of L’Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris, along with other bejeweled clips from esteemed brands of the time. During this period, the decorative arts enjoyed liberating freedom into alternative forms and colours. In jewellery, there was a classical movement which embraced beauty found in natural elements of birds and flowers. These themes inspired by flora and fauna would often be embellished with precious gems, such as diamonds, sapphires and rubies.
The 1960s was a fabulous decade for Van Cleef & Arpels – in 1967, the Maison was commissioned to create a coronation crown for the Empress Farah Palavi, as well as jewels for the Shah’s family. This was one of the most prestigious special orders in the history of Van Cleef & Arpels, affirming the global reputation of the Maison. Throughout the decade, Van Cleef & Arpels created captivating bejeweled flowers modeled after blossoms of daisies, camellias, fuchsias, and bellflowers. Records also show that these flower themed jewels from the Maison were well received by style mavens of the time. Maria Callas, the legendary Greek soprano, was captured on multiple occasions wearing a now-iconic floral clip by the Maison, bejewelled with diamonds and rubies, gracefully accenting long, elegant dresses.
Lot 1796 epitomizes timeless beauty with floral motif, accentuated by the legendary the Mystery Set™ technique. A similar clip of bellflowers made in 1969, set with sapphires - part of the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, is illustrated in The Art & Science of Gems: Van Cleef & Arpels. This bejeweled brooch would be a cherished addition to any discerning connoisseur’s collection.
This unusual bellflower clip brooch offered in Lot 1796 by Van Cleef & Arpels is a child of the 1960s, depicting two delicate bellflowers in bloom using the Mystery Setting™. An exceptionally rare jewel that illustrates the craftsmanship of the Maison, the design for the brooch was published in the 1963 issue of L’Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris, along with other bejeweled clips from esteemed brands of the time. During this period, the decorative arts enjoyed liberating freedom into alternative forms and colours. In jewellery, there was a classical movement which embraced beauty found in natural elements of birds and flowers. These themes inspired by flora and fauna would often be embellished with precious gems, such as diamonds, sapphires and rubies.
The 1960s was a fabulous decade for Van Cleef & Arpels – in 1967, the Maison was commissioned to create a coronation crown for the Empress Farah Palavi, as well as jewels for the Shah’s family. This was one of the most prestigious special orders in the history of Van Cleef & Arpels, affirming the global reputation of the Maison. Throughout the decade, Van Cleef & Arpels created captivating bejeweled flowers modeled after blossoms of daisies, camellias, fuchsias, and bellflowers. Records also show that these flower themed jewels from the Maison were well received by style mavens of the time. Maria Callas, the legendary Greek soprano, was captured on multiple occasions wearing a now-iconic floral clip by the Maison, bejewelled with diamonds and rubies, gracefully accenting long, elegant dresses.
Lot 1796 epitomizes timeless beauty with floral motif, accentuated by the legendary the Mystery Set™ technique. A similar clip of bellflowers made in 1969, set with sapphires - part of the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, is illustrated in The Art & Science of Gems: Van Cleef & Arpels. This bejeweled brooch would be a cherished addition to any discerning connoisseur’s collection.