Ruby and Diamond Necklace, Marchak, France

Composed of braided gold ropework, interspersed with baguette diamonds, embellished with carved rubies and floral motifs set with ruby beads and round and baguette diamonds, length 15 inches, signed Marchak, with French assay and workshop marks; circa 1950.

In good condition with overall surface wear commensurate with age and several spots of lead solder to the reverse seen upon close inspection. Masterfully constructed with the braided gold lending an impressive degree of flexibility. The translucent, medium pinkish to slightly purplish red rubies carved in the Mughal style are heavily included, some with significant surface-reaching inclusions and cavities, predominantly to the reverse, with several examples exhibiting reflective silk as well as color zoning. The 5 largest foliate rubies have drillholes visible from the reverse, suggesting they were previously used in a traditional Indian jewel. The holes of 4 them have been filled with ruby or simulated ruby with one of the drillholes remaining open, but this is not readily apparently, especially when worn. The semi-transparent, drill-set rubies beads are of similar color and moderately to heavily included with several examples bearing surface-reaching inclusions and cavities. The 27 single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.50 carat are near colorless and decorative in quality. The 57 round, transitional- and old European-cut diamonds are approximately 4.35 carats, F-I color, VS-SI clarity. The 83 diamond baguettes are approximately 7.10 carats, G-H color, VS clarity. Diamonds mounted in platinum, the balance in 18K gold. Total gross weight approximately 123 dwts. Double-signed on the tongue clasp. Top open, retract pin closure.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.