SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, KÖCHERT, CIRCA 1900

Of bow design, the central cluster collet-set with a circular-cut sapphire framed with similarly cut diamonds, central cluster and brooch fitting detachable, Austrian assay mark and maker's mark for Köchert, unsigned, fitted case.

Given by Archduke Rainier Ferdinand of Austria (1827-1913) to Archduchess Marie Anne of Austria, Princess Elie de Bourbon Parme (1882-1940), on the occasion of the birth of her son, Robert, in 1909. "Un écrin cuir beige, gros noeud en diamants et saphirs (de Köchert). Le noeud m'a été donné par l'Archiduc Rénier pour la naissance de mon fils Robert".

[A beige leather case with a large diamond and sapphire bow (by Köchert). I received the bow from Archduke Rainier for the birth of my son Robert].

Excerpt from the inventory of Archduchess Marie Anne of Austria, Princess Elie de Bourbon Parme

Irmgard v. Hauser Köchert, Köchert, Imperial Jewellers in Vienna. Jewellery Designs, 1810-1940, Florence, 1990, pg. 522 for a picture of this brooch.

Austrian assay mark for 14 carat gold and maker's mark for Köchert. Central circular-cut sapphire measuring approximately 9.70 x 9.70 x 7.55mm, calculated to weigh approximately 5.50 carats. Sapphire of medium saturation, with good transparency, small typical inclusions and colour zoning visible under close inspection, abrasions, nicks and small chips. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 6.00 - 7.00, on average H-J colour, SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Signs of wear to the metal consistent with age and wear. Clasp secure, sliding safety catch. In very good condition. Central cluster and brooch fitting detachable. Fitted case stamped KOCHERT, NEUER MARKT 15 WIEN.
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