Lot 28
  • 28

GEM SET AND DIAMOND BRACELET AND THREE GOLD BRACELETS

Estimate
3,000 - 5,000 CHF
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Description

The first bracelet collet-set at the front with a cushion-shaped aquamarine and a pink tourmaline, an oval amethyst and a green tourmaline, a circular-cut yellow tourmaline and similarly cut synthetic pink and yellow sapphires, alternating with circular-cut diamonds, inner circumference approximately 160mm, the second of flattened curb-link design supporting a circular locket depicting on the one side the Madonna, the reverse embellished with rose diamond symbol of Faith, Hope and Love, length approximately 190mm, one small diamond deficient, the third composed of fancy links of two tone gold, length approximately 200mm, Austrian assay mark for gold, and the fourth composed of oval links alternating with octagonal links, length approximately 190mm, Austrian assay marks for gold.

Condition

Two bracelets with Austrian assay mark for 14 carat gold. Gemstones of medium strong saturation, with typical inclusions visible under close inspection, a few abrasions to the facet edge and minor chips. Diamonds bright and lively. Scratches to the metal consistent with wear. Clasps secure. In good condition. Total gross weight approximately 80 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

The wedding gifts of an Austrian Archduchess Her Royal Highness the Archduchess Marie-Anne of Austria and Hungary,

Princess Elie de Bourbon Parme

 

On 21 October 1911, at the Austrian castle of Schwarzau, the Habsbourg Imperial family was gathered for the wedding of Princess Zita de Bourbon Parme (1892-1989) and Archduke Carl (1887-1922), who was in line to be emperor of Austria. Among the distinguished guests was Archduchess Marie-Anne of Austria (1882-1940), who was married to Zita’s brother, Prince Elie de Bourbon Parme.

 

Duke Robert de Parme (1848-1907), Princess Zita’s and Prince Elie’s father, was the last reigning Duke of Parma and the heir to an important fortune left by his grandfather, Duke Charles de Parme (1799-1883), his mother, Princess Louise de France, Duchess de Parme (1819-1864), and his uncle, the Comte de Chambord (1820-1883), the last pretender of the senior branch of the royal house of France.

 

In 1903, Prince Elie de Bourbon-Parme married Archduchess Marie-Anne of Austria (1882-1940). She was the daughter of Archduke Frédéric of Austria (1856-1936) and Archduchess Isabelle, née Princesse de Croÿ (1856-1931); she was related to most of the royal catholic families and her aunt, Archduchess Marie-Christine, married in 1879 the King of Spain, Alphonse XII.

 

Marie-Anne had amassed an amazing collection of jewels, gifts from her wedding to the Prince, bestowed upon her by the Prince’s family, and by hers as well. More than one hundred of these jewels are presented here, and give a very rare glimpse of what a royal collection of jewels could have been at the turn of the 20th century. The inventory written by Marie-Anne de Bourbon Parma after the death of her father-in-law, the Duke Robert de Parme in 1907, and modified by her in 1932 gives precious details about the provenance of these magnificent jewels.

 

It is incredible that the collection remained intact after revolutions, wars, and confiscations.

 

 

Vincent Meylan. 

Vincent Meylan is a journalist and historian. He works for the French magazine Point de Vue and has written many books about jewellery. His next book The Queen’s Diamonds, The Saga of Marie Antoinette’s Jewels will be published in 2019 by Antique Collectors Club.