Lot 534
  • 534

NATURAL PEARL, EMERALD, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, RENÉ LALIQUE, CIRCA 1905, AND A PAIR OF EARRINGS

Estimate
120,000 - 180,000 CHF
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Description

Of palmette design, applied with light green plique-à-jour and black enamel, the glass panels depicting a women in profile, alternating with a collet-set cabochon emerald supporting a slightly baroque natural pearl and circular-cut diamonds, inner circumference approximately 310mm, signed Lalique, French and Russian import marks for gold, central glass panel deficient; the pair of earrings later realised using links from the necklace, screw back fittings, one diamond deficient, case signed Lalique.

Literature

Cf.: David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, UK 1989, pg. 256, plate 411 for an image of a bracelet of similar design.

Condition

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 103605, stating that the pearls were found to be natural, saltwater. Necklace signed LALIQUE, French and Russian import marks for 18 carat gold. The pair of earrings were created using two panels which were formerly part of the necklace. Natural pearls cream and grey body colour, with green, brown and rosé overtones, minor scratches, pinpoints and blemishes. For more information on the natural pearls, please refer to the SSEF report. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of 26.00 - 30.00 carats, on average M+ colour, SI clarity, as far as the yellow mount permits, one small diamond deficient. Emeralds with some surface-reaching inclusions, minor scratches and nicks, one emerald chipped. Glass and enamel overall in good condition, one glass panel deficient. Evidences of wear and age to the metal, signs of tarnish to the reverse. Clasp secure. Overall, in good condition. Total gross weight approximately 251 grams. Fitted case stamped LALIQUE, 20, RUE THÉRÉSE, PARIS.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

The Female Form in Art Nouveau Jewellery "The greatest innovation was the introduction of the female form into jewellery. For centuries, with the exception of cameos, intaglios and miniatures, the depicting of the female figure had been excluded from jewels, as if women hated, or considered bad taste, the idea of adorning themselves with the features of another. Art nouveau made the woman's profile, and the naked, sensuous female body, its emblems, and the fin de siècle woman, now concious of her new position on society and of her femininity, wore such jewels with enthusiasm."

Excerpt from David Bennet & Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery



Accompanied by SSEF report no. 103605, stating that the pearls were found to be natural, saltwater.