Demantoid garnet, pearl, enamel and diamond pendant/brooch, attributed to Alfred Phillips, late 19th century

In the Etruscan revival style, of quatrefoil design with rope twist borders, the centre set with a natural pearl measuring approximately 8.8 x 8.6 x 6.0mm, between oval demantoid garnets, cushion-shaped diamonds and seed pearls, applied with a foliate design in green and white cloisonné enamel, to a later pendant fitting applied with translucent green and red enamel, maker's mark AP, brooch pin deficient.

Cf.: Susan Weber Soros and Stefanie Walker, Castellani and Italian Archaeological Jewelry, Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture, New York, 2004, pg. 249, for a brooch of similar design by Castellani.

Accompanied by GCS report no. 78144-97, stating that the central pearl measuring approximately 8.8 - 8.6 x 6.0mm is natural, saltwater. Brooch with maker's mark AP for Alfred Phillips to reverse, incised inventory number. Central pearl is greyish-white body colour with rose and green overtones, bouton shaped. Seed pearls of white body colour with rose and green overtones. All pearls with banding, pitting and minor imperfections to nacre surface, one seed pearl with pronounced pitting and unevenness. Diamonds bright and lively, estimated total diamond weight approximately 1.00 - 1.20 carats, estimated clarity approximately VS2-SI1 on average. Demantoid garnets green, transparent, with typical minor inclusions visible under magnification, with areas of wear to and minor chipping to facet edges. Minor losses to enamel on pendant fitting and black enamel to seed pearl settings. Green and white enamel to central pendant in good condition. Light scratches to all surfaces consistent with age and wear. Remnants of hinged brooch fitting to reverse, pin deficient. Overall measurements approximately 36 x 46mm including pendant fitting. Gross weight approximately 15.8 grams.
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The central pearl accompanied by a gemmological report.

Alfred Phillips was the son of Robert Phillips (1810-1881), who founded Phillips Brothers & Sons of Cockspur Street. Drawing inspiration from jewels by their Italian contemporaries Castellani, Phillips was a major proponent of the Archaeological Revival style in England, alongside the jewellers John Brogden and Carlo and Arthur Giuliano. Alfred continued the family business after his father's death in 1881 until 1902, when the remaining stock was sold to the jewellers D&J Wellby Ltd of Garrick Street.