Diamond and gem-set acrostic bracelet, 1860s

Designed as a line of eight clusters centred on cushion-shaped or cabochon stones, including ruby, beryl, an agate carved with a flower, emerald, hessonite garnet, brown chalcedony, opal and sapphire, spaced with open work links, to a clasp bearing the initials 'JB', set throughout with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, French import marks, length approximately 173mm, one diamond deficient.

Tongue of clasp broken, needs attention. With French import mark for 18 carat gold on tongue. Gem-stones with typical inclusions, some visible to the naked eye and some under magnification. Stones with some areas of small chipping and wear to facet edges. Diamonds are bright and lively. Signs of wear commensurate with age, surface scratches. Discoloration to mount, particularly to the reverse. The mounts set with coloured gem-stones are brighter compared to the pierced ones. Overall condition commensurate with age and wear.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The very particular combination and ordering of the stones in this bracelet place it within the tradition of 'acrostic' jewellery. Initially popularised during the late 18th and early 19th centuries, acrostic jewellery uses the initials of each stone to form a hidden message, such as 'DEAREST' or 'REGARD'. This piece, with its combination of ruby, goshenite (colourless beryl, known as Iris quartz), banded agate (Niccolo), emerald, hessonite garnet (Vermeille), brown quartz (Uraine), opal and sapphire, spells out 'SOUVENIR', meaning 'remembrance' in French. The inclusion of the 'forget-me-not' flower carved into the onyx adds another symbolic dimension to this message, and the initials 'JB' included on the clasp are likely those of the person commemorated by the wearer of this jewel.

Cf.: Sentimental Jewellery, Shirley Bury, London, 1985, page 28, for a discussion of acrostic jewellery.