An impressive diamond necklace, in the 'Garland Style', early 20th century

Designed as a line of bows millegrain-set with circular-cut diamonds, the front suspending swags and pendent floral motifs set with cushion-shaped diamonds of yellow tint, length approximately 395mm, composite.

Accompanied by facsimiles of four GIA reports, numbered 5161413048, 5161445315, 2165445309 and 6167413058, stating that the diamonds weighing 0.75, 1.36, 1.63 and 1.92 carats are Fancy Intense Greenish Yellow, Fancy Greenish Yellow, Fancy Deep Greenish Yellow and Fancy Yellow respectively, all natural colour. The reverse of yellow metal; the front white. Incised number MTA1825 to reverse of central pendant. Yellow diamonds of various tints and mixed clarity grades, estimated to range from VS to I clarity, estimated total yellow diamond weight approximately 27.00 - 33.00 carats. Largest yellow diamond measuring approximately 7.5 x 7.0 x 4.7mm, calculated to weigh approximately 1.91 carats. Remaining diamonds bright and lively, estimated total colourless diamond weight approximately 6.00 - 8.00 carats. Links well-articulated. Composite - later rear section attached by hook fittings to form necklace. Fittings for screws to reverse of central bow motifs and floral pendants at each end of front section. Some links with evidence of solder repair, visible on reverse. Light scratches and areas of mild discoloration to metal surfaces consistent with age and wear. In good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Accompanied by facsimiles of four GIA reports, stating that the diamonds weighing 0.75, 1.36, 1.63 and 1.92 carats are Fancy Intense Greenish Yellow, Fancy Greenish Yellow, Fancy Deep Greenish Yellow and Fancy Yellow respectively, all natural colour. 

The closing years of the 19th century to the beginning of World War I were years of largely peaceful affluence, characterised by the elegance and extravagance of its cosmopolitan elite and known as 'La Belle Epoque'. During this era, jewellery developed a distinctly elegant style under the guidance of tastemakers such as Louis Cartier. This so-called 'Garland Style' drew from the rich visual vocabulary of 18th century French ornament, adapting motifs such as laurel wreaths, floral swags, ribbon bows and tassels to create jewels of opulent, yet delicate and refined beauty, perfectly suited to the pageantry on display at court and the many glamorous balls and events that populated the social calendar. Jewels in the Garland style owe their lightness of touch to the introduction of platinum, the strength and rigidity of which allowed jewellers to create highly intricate and attenuated forms without sacrificing structural integrity. The whiteness of platinum, particularly paired with diamonds and pearls, matched this jewellery perfectly to the pastel colour schemes favoured by the fashionable couturiers of the day.

The design of the present necklace, distributing its wealth of diamonds within an intricate arrangement of swags, bows and floral motifs, achieves an elegance and refinement that perfectly embodies this seminal style. 

Cf:. David Bennett, Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, Suffolk, 1989, page 245, plate 379 and pages 262-287 for illustrations of jewels in the Garland style.