Gold, Diamond and Emerald 'Serpenti' Bracelet-Watch, Bulgari

Designed as a coiled serpent, the scales composed of gold tubogas links, the head and tail highlighted by round and marquise-shaped diamonds, further accented by marquise-shaped emeralds, with cabochon emerald eyes, the mouth opening to reveal a watch dial with baton indicators, mechanical movement, internal circumference 5½ inches, expandable, the dial signed Bulgari and Jaeger-LeCoultre, the caseback signed Bulgari, numbered 146634, with French assay and workshop marks; circa 1960s. With signed box.

In very good condition, even light wear commensurate with age consisting of light scratches to the yellow gold tubogas links, concealed watch dial with scattered spotting but signatures are distinct. The watch dial signed Jaeger LeCoultre and Bulgari, the underside of the serpent head signed BVLGARI, the caseback numbered 146634, a French workshop mark and assay mark, the underside of the tail stamped with registry mark for Alessandria and 750 for 18 karat gold. The inner caseback stamped with case number 146634, the movement signed Jaeger LeCoultre with Reference number 427, the movement winds, sets and runs but has not been timed for accuracy. The numerous round and marquise cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 5.65 carats, F-G color, VS clarity. The emeralds are slightly bluish green in hue, medium in tone, moderately strong in saturation, with moderately high to high clarity and very good cut proportions. Gross weight approximately 148 dwts. Accompanied by a certificate from Carlo Illario & Flli stating that the watch was manufactured by Carlo Illario & Flli for Bulgari Rome, circa 1960. Please see Important Notice Regarding Condition of Watches on page 209 of the printed catalogue.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by a certificate from Carlo Illario & Flli stating that the watch was manufactured by Carlo Illario & Flli for Bulgari Rome, circa 1960.

This watch is similar in design to one in Elizabeth Taylor's Collection. Taylor's Serpenti watch is illustrated on the cover of Bulgari: Serpenti Collection by Marion Fasel.

As one of the oldest Italian jewelry houses dating back to 1884, Bulgari has a longstanding tradition of creating jewelry with the highest quality craftsmanship, utilizing the finest gemstones available.   During the middle of the 20^th century Bulgari embraced the post-war dichotomy within Italian society – the desire to embrace a new, modern way of life as well as stay connected to Italy’s deep classical roots.  This ideal has carried forward to present day with Bulgari’s jewelry capturing the essence of Italian glamour for the contemporary woman.  In a 1963 article in Connaissance des Arts, art historian Evelyne Schlumberger affirms, “A Bulgari jewel is as recognizable as a Chanel suit.”

One of the most recognizable designs which Bulgari first introduced in the 1940s, is the tubogas “gas pipe” technique, which later developed into literal interpretations of the serpent in the 1960s.  Lot 312 is an exemplary serpenti bracelet-watch which highlights a serpent’s head perched atop the snake’s coiling body, opening to reveal a watch dial.   This piece captures the spirit and essence of the sophisticated and stylish jewelry collector, which Bulgari has long striven to embody.