Diamond Bracelet, Cartier, Paris

Composed of articulated segments of open geometric design, set with round diamonds, accented by single-cut diamonds, length 7 inches, signed Cartier Paris, with French assay mark; circa 1925.

In good condition, light wear commensurate with age consisting of scratches and scuffs, subtle bends to link joints, scattered spots of gold solder in gallery. Signed Cartier Paris (partially obscured), numbered 9663A, French assay mark for platinum, with scratch number. The numerous old European cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 19.00-21.00 carats including the larger diamonds which are estimated to weigh approximately 0.90-1.00 carat each, G-H color, VS-SI clarity. Gross weight approximately 37 dwts. Measuring approximately 7 inches in length.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Cartier’s Art Deco jewels represent one of the high points in the history of jewelry design.  The bracelet offered here captures a seamless stylistic transition from the delicacy and femininity of the Belle Époque period to the more substantial forms of the 1920s.  Here, Cartier has created a highly refined jewel that avoids excess, focusing instead on simplicity, geometry and a hint of the exotic.  The monochromatic palette of white diamonds against openwork platinum mounting allows the jewel’s Indo-Persian and floral motifs to speak as a whisper, constructing the appearance of a continuous, shimmering band.     

While fantastic statement pieces in their own right, Art Deco bracelets were even more dazzling when stacked one upon the other, creating an incredibly glamourous and self-consciously luxuriant effect.  Indeed, it was not uncommon for society women and actresses the likes of Evelyn Brent, Barbara Hutton, Tamara Lempicka and Myrna Loy to indulge in multiple bracelets running up their arms, solidifying these forms as being among the archetypal jewels of the Art Deco period.