Gold and Gem-Set Sautoir, Robert Goossens for Chanel, France

The hammered gold chain suspending a cross pendant set with a spinel bead, tumbled turquoises and cultured pearls, the reverse engraved with an image of a saint, gross weight approximately 117 dwts, length 31 inches, with French assay and workshop mark for Robert Goossens.

For additional information on Chanel's Byzantine jewels see Jewelry by Chanel by Patrick Mauriès.

In very good condition, light wear consisting of superficial scratches and scuffs. Stamped with French assay and workshop mark for Robert Goossens. The tumbled spinel of purplish pink hue, medium tone, medium saturation; subtly visible fractures towards the top of the stone and a visible vertical drill hole traversing the entire stone. The rough tumbled turquoise of variegated blue hue with varying amounts of green scattered throughout with matrix. Approximately 31 inches in length; the pendant measuring approximately 4 x 2 inches inclusive of hinged bail. Gross weight approximately 117 dwts. Accompanied by a booklet dedicated to this necklace.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

For nearly a century the House of Chanel has set trends and defined style, making it perhaps the most influential, recognizable and profitable fashion brand on the planet. Coco Chanel’s philosophy on jewelry reflected her commitment to individuality, authenticity and bold statements, always with a keen sense of proportion.  The Chanel “look,” quite simply, cannot exist without jewelry, a fact firmly established with the introduction of her first fine jewelry collection in 1932.

From the beginning, Renaissance and Byzantine art informed the Chanel jewelry oeuvre and, as with the present lot, was often designed in collaboration with Robert Goossens. Goossens would become Chanel’s chief jewelry designer in 1960 and remained closely associated with designs of Byzantine inspiration throughout his career, particularly Chanel’s signature Maltese Cross. Decades later, these same motifs appeared in costume jewelry on the runways of YSL, Lacroix and Dior. But, as with cotton jersey, ropes of pearls and the little black dress, Chanel did it first. And best.